Science
Mechanism of Action
Originating from licorice root, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate functions primarily as a powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing agent. It strategically intervenes in inflammatory cascades by inhibiting key enzymes such as phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase, which are responsible for producing pro-inflammatory mediators like prostaglandins and leukotrienes. Furthermore, it significantly inhibits hyaluronidase, an enzyme implicated in hyaluronic acid degradation, inflammation, and allergic responses. By preserving the connective tissue matrix and decreasing vascular permeability, it mitigates inflammatory cell migration and histamine release. This dual enzymatic inhibition pathway helps to reduce redness and irritation effectively, and the ingredient may also contribute to sebum regulation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient, or its close relative Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, exhibits chemical stability but will decompose if heated above 100°C for extended periods. For optimal integration, it should be incorporated as a final-step ingredient into cosmetic formulations, ensuring the product temperature remains below 60°C and the final pH is within the range of 4 to 7. Its mild electrolyte nature may lead to a slight decrease in formula viscosity. To mitigate oxidation and potential color changes, the co-formulation with antioxidants, such as 1% ActiveProtec™ OX for related compounds, is suggested.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Potassium Glycyrrhetinate is safe for topical use in cosmetic and personal care products at concentrations up to 1%. It is not identified as an irritant, sensitizer, phototoxic agent, or photosensitizer at this maximum use concentration. While licorice and its derivatives hold a Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) status by the FDA for specific direct food applications, this status does not directly equate to FDA approval for topical cosmetic use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Potassium Glycyrrhetinate is a highly valuable ingredient for calming irritated and sensitive skin, offering potent anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits with a strong safety profile up to 1% concentration.
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References
Sources