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Moumoujus

POLYSORBATE 85.

Valuable CAS 9005-70-3 / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polysorbate 85 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier, critical for creating stable oil-in-water formulations in skincare. It aids in blending oil and water components, improving product consistency and enabling uniform dispersion of hydrophobic ingredients.

Summary

emulsifying surfactant solubilizer penetration enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

Polysorbate 85 functions as a non-ionic surfactant due to its amphiphilic structure, possessing both hydrophilic and hydrophobic regions. This enables it to reduce the surface tension between immiscible phases like oil and water, facilitating the formation of stable oil-in-water emulsions. Beyond emulsification, it acts as a solubilizer for water-insoluble compounds such as fragrances, ensuring their even distribution. Furthermore, by altering surface tension, it can enhance product spreadability and potentially improve the dermal penetration and absorption of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Daily application under occlusive dressing for 4 days on healthy individuals resulted in minor erythema in 11 of 15 cases and elevated epidermal phospholipids, indicating a potential for irritation in specific conditions.
  2. 02 In generalized polysorbate studies (including 85), concentrations within this range produced mild to moderate irritation over 4 successive days of application.
  3. 03 Application for 10 days elicited only slight erythema; however, after 30 days, the inflammatory response varied from minimal to marked depending on concentration and individual sensitivity.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

As a liquid surfactant and emulsifier, Polysorbate 85 is not typically associated with dusting in cosmetic formulations.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Polysorbate 85 exhibits stability across a wide pH range, tolerating electrolytes, weak acids, and weak bases. However, it can undergo gradual saponification in the presence of strong acids or strong bases. Its oleate component is susceptible to oxidation, and the ingredient is hygroscopic, potentially forming peroxides if stored improperly or for extended periods. Optimal storage involves a sealed, light-protected container in a cool, dry environment.

Conflicts

  • Strong acids (saponification)
  • Strong bases (saponification)
  • Phenol (discoloration and/or precipitation)
  • Tannin (discoloration and/or precipitation)
  • Tar and tar-like substances (discoloration and/or precipitation)
  • Parabens (reduces antimicrobial activity)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
21.9%%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed polysorbates, including Polysorbate 85, safe for cosmetic use when incorporated into non-irritating formulations. Studies confirm it is neither mutagenic nor carcinogenic. The maximum reported concentration for Polysorbate 85 in skin cleansing products is 21.9%, while in marketed topical emulsions, it is typically used up to 6.00%. It holds FDA approval as an indirect food additive (emulsifier/surface active agent) and complies with the general provisions of the EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polysorbate 85 is a valuable formulation aid, ensuring product stability and texture at safe concentrations, with a low risk of irritation when properly formulated.

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