Science
Mechanism of Action
As a member of the per- and polyfluoroalkyl substance (PFAS) family, this ingredient functions by creating a hydrophobic and oleophobic barrier on the skin or hair. This film-forming capability helps to condition, smooth, and protect the surface from moisture and oils.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceNo singular optimal percentage is defined, as efficacy is contingent upon the solvent system and pH. Hydroglycolic solutions demonstrate peak water repellency at 0.5-2% concentration within a pH range of 3.5-5.0. For aqueous solutions, 2% concentration yields high water repellency at pH 5.5-7.0.
Key findings
- 01 Hydroglycolic solutions containing 0.5-2% of the ingredient exhibit maximal water repellency when the pH is maintained between 3.5 and 5.0.
- 02 Aqueous solutions formulated with 2% of the ingredient achieve high water repellency within a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0.
- 03 Transparent aqueous solutions can be formulated at a 5% concentration, reaching a pH of approximately 5.4 through neutralization with sodium hydroxide.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient exhibits significant chemical and thermal stability, enduring temperatures up to 250°C. Unneutralized solutions are acidic, typically presenting a pH of 2-3. While initially insoluble in water, mineral oil, silicone oils, and fatty substances, it is highly soluble in ethanol, low-molecular-weight glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, pentylene glycol), and ether-alcohols (e.g., PPG-2-methylether). Water solubility can be achieved by neutralizing the ingredient with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, to adjust the pH to a more physiological range; for instance, a 5% solution can reach pH 5.4. Precise processing conditions are crucial to ensure complete reaction of intermediate alcohols and optimize monosubstitution.
Conflicts
- The addition of hydrogel-forming agents like xanthan gum or carbomer, or oils within emulsion systems, may reduce its water repellency attributes.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has determined that there is insufficient data to ascertain the safety of this polyfluorinated polyether. As a per- and polyfluoroalkyl substance (PFAS), the FDA highlights significant data gaps concerning its use in cosmetics, including limited usage levels, and an absence of dermal absorption and toxicity data, precluding a definitive safety assessment for most PFAS. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) rates this ingredient as 'unacceptable' for its EWG VERIFIED™ program, citing elevated concerns regarding cancer, allergies, immunotoxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity, alongside its persistence and potential for bioaccumulation. California has legislated a ban on PFAS compounds in cosmetic products, and the Danish Consumer Council THINK Chemicals advises consumers to avoid PFAS in cosmetics due to broader exposure concerns.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite its functional benefits as a conditioning and repellency agent, this ingredient is a PFAS with inadequate safety data, significant health concerns from independent groups, and is subject to regulatory bans, rendering it highly unsuitable for use in precision skincare formulations.
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