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POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - HYDROTROPE

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate is a multi-functional non-ionic surfactant derived from vegetable glycerin and fatty acids. It effectively bridges oil and water phases, acting as a gentle emulsifier and solubilizer while simultaneously offering skin conditioning and mild cleansing benefits. This versatile ester contributes to stable formulations and an improved skin feel across various product types.

Summary

Emulsifying Agent Solubilizer Surfactant / Cleansing Agent Skin-Conditioning Agent Emollient Hydrating Agent Barrier Strengthening Penetration Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functioning as an emulsifying agent, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate facilitates the stable combination of immiscible oil and water components within a formulation. As a solubilizer, it effectively disperses small quantities of lipophilic substances, such as fragrances or essential oils, into aqueous systems. Its non-ionic surfactant activity lowers surface tension, promoting uniform product distribution and providing a mild cleansing action. On the skin, it serves as a conditioning and hydrating agent, contributing to a light skin feel, aiding moisture retention, preventing dryness, and supporting a stronger skin barrier by mitigating transepidermal water loss. Furthermore, it is observed to enhance the epidermal penetration of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–34%
Optimal

5%

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient demonstrates excellent stability across a broad pH spectrum, typically from 4.0 to 10.0. It is cold processable and can be efficiently incorporated into the water phase of a formulation. While storage may induce turbidity or minor precipitation, these can be resolved by homogenization at approximately 30°C. Heating above 80°C should be avoided to maintain integrity.

Synergies

  • Facilitates the incorporation and stability of oil-soluble ingredients (e.g., essential oils, fragrances) into water-based systems.

Conflicts

  • Insoluble in paraffin oil and isopropyl myristate (IPM), according to some reports.
  • Conflicting data exists regarding compatibility with vegetable and mineral oils; some sources indicate insolubility with certain vegetable oils, while others suggest broad compatibility.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
34%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate, along with related polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, as safe for use in cosmetics, provided formulations are non-irritating. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, with rare instances of allergic reactions or irritation reported. Its use is also approved by regulatory bodies such as the European Union's Cosmetics Regulation.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Medium

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate is a valuable, safe, and versatile ingredient, offering significant benefits as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and skin conditioner suitable for all skin types, with a generally low risk of irritation.

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