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POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE.

Avoid CAS 66082-42-6 / 85666-92-8 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is a versatile ester functioning as an emollient, emulsifier, and surfactant. It supports skin hydration by enhancing the moisture barrier and improves the stability and efficacy of active ingredients within formulations.

Summary

Emulsifying Emollient Surfactant

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient forms a delicate film on the skin's surface, effectively minimizing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) to retain moisture and maintain skin suppleness. It strengthens the natural lipid barrier and, as a surfactant, stabilizes the blend of immiscible liquids in emulsions. It also refines product texture for a smooth, non-greasy feel, offering mild soothing properties and protection against external aggressors.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical observations demonstrate its ability to improve skin hydration by diminishing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and elevating skin water content, thereby fortifying the skin's moisture barrier.
  2. 02 Research indicates it enhances the stability and bioavailability of other active ingredients in skincare formulations by boosting their solubility and dispersibility for deeper epidermal penetration.
  3. 03 Studies also reveal its antioxidant capabilities, offering protection against oxidative stress and free radical damage.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate exhibits robust stability across a broad pH spectrum, retaining its emulsifying efficacy in both acidic and alkaline conditions. It demonstrates good thermostability and acid resistance, preventing phase separation, creaming, and coalescence in cosmetic formulations. The ingredient tolerates electrolytes and various active compounds and can be integrated via cold blending processes.

Synergies

  • Enhances solubility and dispersibility of other active ingredients

Conflicts

  • Retinol
  • Salicylic Acid
  • Glycolic Acid

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by regulatory bodies like the U.S. FDA and European Union for cosmetic use. While largely considered mild and non-irritating, making it suitable for sensitive skin, rare instances of mild irritation or allergic reactions have been reported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) noted 'skin/eye/lung irritation - weight of evidence unknown/unassessed' for some aspects, but overall deems it safe for current usage levels, typically within 1-5%, with recommendations extending up to 10%.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity High

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite its hydrating and formulation benefits, the high comedogenicity of Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate necessitates avoidance, particularly for individuals prone to clogged pores or breakouts, consistent with an 'avo' rating from INCIDecoder.

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