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POLYGLYCERYL-20 PENTACAPRYLATE/CAPRATE.

Valuable / CLEANSING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-20 Pentacaprylate/Caprate is a versatile polyglyceryl ester functioning primarily as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent. It expertly blends oil and water-based ingredients to stabilize formulations while also enhancing skin hydration and texture. Its multi-functional profile makes it a highly compatible ingredient for various skincare applications.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant Skin-conditioning agent Solubilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

On the skin, Polyglyceryl-20 Pentacaprylate/Caprate acts as a conditioning agent, promoting hydration and softening the skin without imparting a greasy feel. It may also contribute to barrier integrity by helping to reduce transepidermal water loss. Within formulations, it serves to stabilize products by effectively emulsifying immiscible oil and water components, improving overall texture and spreadability. Additionally, it functions as a surfactant to enhance cleansing properties and as a solubilizer for lipophilic substances in aqueous systems, potentially aiding the penetration of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient demonstrates robust stability across a wide pH range, specifically between 3 and 10. It can be effectively integrated into the water phase of formulations and is compatible with both hot and cold processing methods. When utilized as a solubilizer, optimal dispersion is achieved by first mixing it with the substance to be solubilized before gradually incorporating water.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, including structurally similar compounds, are safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations, provided the formulations are non-irritating. This ingredient class is broadly recognized for its low potential for irritation and non-comedogenic properties. While a specific maximum concentration for Polyglyceryl-20 Pentacaprylate/Caprate is not specified, a related ester, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, was deemed safe at concentrations between 0.5% and 1.5% in both leave-on and rinse-off products.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polyglyceryl-20 Pentacaprylate/Caprate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient that enhances formulation stability and provides skin conditioning benefits, featuring a favorable safety and compatibility profile across all skin types.

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