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POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE.

Valuable CAS - / FILM FORMING

POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE, also known as Polyglutamic Acid (PGA), is a high-molecular weight biopolymer celebrated for its exceptional hydrating and skin-strengthening properties. It forms a breathable, moisture-retaining film on the skin's surface, contributing to enhanced barrier function and a visibly rejuvenated complexion.

Summary

skin conditioning moisturizer/humectant antioxidant emulsion stabilising hair fixing viscosity controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE functions primarily as a powerful humectant and film-forming polymer, creating a breathable matrix on the skin to significantly reduce transepidermal water loss and boost overall moisture retention. Its action extends to stimulating the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), including pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), lactic acid, and urocanic acid. This ingredient also upregulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid by increasing the expression of hyaluronic acid synthase mRNA levels (types 1, 2, and 3) and promotes aquaporin 3 expression, vital for water transport within the skin. Additionally, POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE strengthens the skin barrier, exhibits antioxidant capabilities, and can inhibit hyaluronidase, thereby preserving the skin’s native hyaluronic acid. In vitro studies further suggest its capacity to foster fibroblast and keratinocyte cell growth, indicating potential in skin repair and rejuvenation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Effective for replenishing skin moisture, leaving skin smooth, firm, and with reduced appearance of wrinkles.
  2. 02 Topical application elevated filaggrin, involucrin, CD44, and aquaporin 3 expression in a reconstructed skin model, strengthening the skin barrier and improving moisture retention.
  3. 03 Clinical studies over 8 weeks with 31 participants showed a 172% increase in skin hydration after 1 hour, a 43% reduction in water loss after 1 hour, 24-hour moisturization, a 122% improvement in skin elasticity, a 49% increase in firmness, a 34% reduction in wrinkles, and a 39% decrease in pore appearance.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE is water-soluble, with its solubility affected by pH; lower pH protonates carboxyl groups, reducing solubility, while higher pH enhances it. Its structural conformation changes with pH (alpha-helical below pH 5.5, extended-coil above pH 6.5), which can influence its stability and function. Generally, it remains stable within typical cosmetic pH ranges.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid (due to hyaluronidase inhibition)
  • Skin barrier-supporting ingredients

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

While not specifically reviewed by CIR, POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE (Polyglutamic Acid) is widely regarded as safe and well-tolerated in cosmetic applications. Patch tests on volunteers have demonstrated an absence of irritative or allergic reactions. In vitro studies confirm its non-genotoxic nature, and the EWG Skin Deep database rates Polyglutamic Acid as 'LOW' for concerns like cancer, allergies & immunotoxicity, and developmental and reproductive toxicity.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

POLYETHYLGLUTAMATE is a valuable multi-functional humectant and barrier-strengthening biopolymer, clinically proven to significantly enhance hydration, elasticity, and firmness while reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pores.

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