Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient is a unique block copolymer constructed from polyoxyethylene (PEO) and polyoxypropylene (PPO) segments, crosslinked with an isocyanate (SMDI) component. Its amphiphilic nature, with both hydrophobic PPO and hydrophilic PEO blocks, allows it to self-aggregate into micelles in aqueous solutions. On the skin, it primarily acts as a surfactant, reducing surface tension to aid in emulsification and solubilization of diverse components, facilitating thorough cleansing by enabling water to mix with oils and impurities. Additionally, its polymeric structure provides long-lasting, flexible film formation, contributing to product longevity and feel.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Poloxamer 338 is generally a stable material, with its aqueous solutions maintaining stability across a range of pH conditions (acids, alkalis) and in the presence of metal ions. However, it is important to note that aqueous Poloxamer solutions can support mold growth, necessitating appropriate preservation strategies. The gelling behavior and gel point of Poloxamers can also be influenced by the inclusion of salts or active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs).
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Poloxamer 338, alongside other Poloxamers, safe for use in cosmetics. Dermal irritation and sensitization tests conducted on Poloxamers have consistently yielded negative results, with only minimal ocular irritation observed, not dermal. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that significant skin penetration is unlikely, based on molecular weight and solubility. The FDA permits Poloxamers as indirect food additives and in sanitizing solutions with incidental food contact. While generally considered non-toxic and FDA-approved for various products, there is a specific, though low-risk, concern for potential irritation in highly sensitive skin due to the isocyanate component and film-forming characteristics of POLOXAMER 338/PPG-51/SMDI COPOLYMER at typical use levels.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
POLOXAMER 338/PPG-51/SMDI COPOLYMER is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, primarily recognized for its excellent performance as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and film-former in diverse cosmetic and skincare formulations.
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