Get a Free 5ml Mini Now Free 5ml Mini With Every Order of The Mantle
Moumoujus

POLOXAMER 123.

Valuable CAS 9003-11-6 / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Poloxamer 123 is a nonionic triblock copolymer, engineered for multifunctional performance in skincare formulations. Its unique amphiphilic structure enables it to act as an effective surfactant, emulsifier, cleansing agent, and solubilizer, enhancing product stability and performance across various applications.

Summary

Emollient Surfactant/Cleansing Emulsifying Solubilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as an A-B-A triblock copolymer, featuring hydrophilic polyoxyethylene (PEO) blocks flanking a central hydrophobic polyoxypropylene (PPO) block. This amphiphilic architecture allows it to significantly reduce the surface tension between immiscible phases, thereby stabilizing emulsions and aiding in the dissolution of oil-soluble components in aqueous systems. When applied to the skin, it helps water mix with oils and dirt, facilitating gentle yet effective cleansing. In aqueous solutions, it can self-assemble into micelles, where the hydrophobic PPO forms a core and the hydrophilic PEO forms a corona, enhancing its solubilizing capabilities.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Poloxamer 123's ability to form micelles and liquid-crystalline phases is highly temperature-dependent; elevated temperatures can decrease its critical micelle concentration (CMC). Aqueous dispersions of Poloxamers can exhibit thermogelling behavior, transitioning from a liquid state at lower temperatures to a strong gel upon temperature increase. Notably, a 30wt% aqueous solution of Pluronic P123 (a trade name for Poloxamer 123) forms a cubic gel phase.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
20%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Poloxamer 123 is safe for cosmetic use, recommending a maximum concentration of 20%. Given its molecular weight and solubility, skin penetration is considered minimal. The Panel emphasizes the continued importance of purification procedures to keep trace impurities like ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and 1,4-dioxane below established safety limits. Poloxamers are also permitted by the FDA for incidental food contact in sanitizing solutions, and related Poloxamer 407 is FDA-approved for oral and topical drug applications.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Poloxamer 123 is a valuable, multifunctional ingredient that effectively performs as a surfactant, emulsifier, cleanser, and solubilizer, boasting a strong safety profile and broad compatibility across all skin types.

Related

Similar Ingredients

Finding similar ingredients…