Science
Mechanism of Action
The efficacy of Poloxamer 108 stems from its unique molecular architecture, featuring a central hydrophobic polyoxypropylene (PPO) block flanked by two hydrophilic polyoxyethylene (PEO) blocks. This amphiphilic design enables it to act as an effective surfactant, lowering the surface tension between different phases within a formula. It excels at emulsifying oils into water-based solutions, solubilizing lipophilic compounds, and serving as a mild cleansing agent by effectively encapsulating and lifting oil and dirt for easy rinsing. At elevated concentrations, its polymeric structure also allows it to modify rheology, contributing to thickening or the formation of stable hydrogels in aqueous systems.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Clinical tests for dermal irritation and sensitization across Poloxamers, including Poloxamer 108, at concentrations ranging from 0.005% to 20%, consistently reported uniformly negative results, confirming its high skin compatibility.
- 02 Poloxamer formulations, typically used between 0.1% and 15%, have been shown to effectively deliver and deposit various active agents onto and into the skin, enhancing ingredient bioavailability.
- 03 For stable hydrogel formation, Poloxamer 108 is effectively utilized at weight ratios between 10% and 30%, with concentrations below this range failing to yield stable gel structures.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Poloxamer 108 is a fundamental formulating excipient valued for its functional properties rather than a 'hero' active ingredient, therefore it is not commonly subject to the practice of 'dusting' in cosmetics.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Poloxamer 108 demonstrates robust stability across various conditions, exhibiting good resistance to high temperatures, acidic and alkaline environments, and oxidative processes. It is soluble in both water and alcohol. A unique characteristic is its reverse solubility, meaning it becomes more soluble at lower temperatures; as temperature increases, the solubility of its hydrophobic PPO block decreases, leading to micelle formation.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded Poloxamer 108 is safe for cosmetic use up to 20%, provided purification procedures are strictly followed to keep impurities (ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, 1,4-dioxane) below regulatory limits. Its molecular weight and solubility characteristics suggest minimal and slow skin penetration. Additionally, it holds approval from the US FDA for pharmaceutical applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Poloxamer 108 is a highly valuable and versatile formulating ingredient, enhancing product stability, texture, cleansing efficacy, and active delivery across all skin types, underpinned by an excellent safety profile and minimal irritation risk.
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References
Sources