Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient's mechanism of action on the skin is attributed to its diverse phytochemical profile. Residual fatty acids and tocopherols from the seed oil contribute to reinforcing cellular membranes, mitigating free radical damage, providing moisturization, and bolstering the skin barrier function. Sacha Inchi albumin, a prominent protein component, has been shown to enhance skin moisture content, stimulate collagen production, and elevate skin antioxidant enzymatic activities, while simultaneously reducing malondialdehyde levels and modulating inflammation through decreased TNF-α and increased IL-6 in preclinical models of aged skin. The collective bioactive compounds further contribute potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While a specific optimal pH range for stability has not been definitively established, components like saponins can be extracted using hydroalcoholic solutions and are known to be stable in buffers, such as at pH 7.4. The natural presence of antioxidants, including tocopherols and phenolic compounds within Sacha Inchi, is expected to contribute positively to the ingredient's and product's shelf-life.
Safety
Safety Profile
PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS SEEDCAKE possesses a UNII number (9ZS2YRU9B5), indicating its recognition as a substance by the FDA UNII, though this does not equate to a safety assessment or approval. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) is currently evaluating the safety of the related Plukenetia volubilis seed oil. However, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has expressed significant reservations regarding the safety of Plukenetia volubilis-derived products for the EU market. These concerns stem from insufficient quantitative data on total saponins (1050.1 ± 1.1 mg/100g) and alkaloids (2.1 ± 0.5 mg/100g) present in the seeds, alongside a lack of information concerning the specific types of alkaloids, despite one alkaloid, trigonelline, being predicted to have a low hepatotoxicity risk.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While offering promising antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties supported by mechanistic and preclinical evidence, a lack of human clinical studies and significant regulatory concerns from EFSA regarding comprehensive safety data deem this ingredient as having insufficient data for a definitive assessment in cosmetic applications.
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References
Sources