Science
Mechanism of Action
Phosphatidylserine (PS) functions as a crucial signaling lipid, actively dampening inflammatory responses by inhibiting key inflammatory mediators such as cytokines, IL-6, and COX-2. Concurrently, it stimulates the release of anti-inflammatory substances like TGF-ß and prostaglandin E2. Its role in accelerating wound healing involves enhancing fibroblast and endothelium activity, which promotes collagen deposition and epithelialization, alongside elevating critical growth factors (FGF, VEGF) and reducing necrotic areas. PS also exhibits antioxidant properties, effectively preventing UV-induced reductions in type I procollagen and suppressing MMP-1 expression, thereby maintaining collagen integrity and skin barrier function. Its inherent affinity for corneocyte surfaces contributes to a long-lasting skin smoothing effect.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Topical Phosphatidylserine effectively dampens inflammatory processes by inhibiting mediators and releasing anti-inflammatory substances, proving beneficial for dry solar erythema, eczema, atopic skin, and psoriasis, while also generating a smoothing effect.
- 02 In rat models, topical PS significantly accelerated wound recovery by nearly 80%, enhancing fibroblast and endothelium activity, increasing collagen deposition and epithelialization scores, and elevating FGF and VEGF cytokine factors, leading to improved necrotic areas.
- 03 Topical PS prevented UV-induced reduction in type I procollagen expression and inhibited UV-induced MMP-1 expression in dermal fibroblasts and human skin in vivo. It dose-dependently blocked UV-induced IL-6 and COX-2 gene expression, and in aged skin, it increased procollagen transcription and decreased MMP-1 expression at both mRNA and protein levels.
- 04 When formulated as nanoparticles, PS actively targets inflammatory mediators, preserves skin barrier function, calms the complexion, accelerates healing, exhibits antioxidant properties, supports collagen integrity, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Research data does not provide information regarding 'dusting' practices for this ingredient.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Phosphatidylserine preparations, particularly in liquid forms, exhibit low stability due to rapid decomposition. This instability is typically attributed to residual biocatalytic activity (e.g., phospholipase D activity) or side reactions involving water or glycerol, which can result in the formation of phosphatidic acid and a reduction in the active ingredient concentration.
Conflicts
- Difficult to stabilize in aqueous emulsions without the inclusion of additional co-emulsifiers, such as phosphatidylcholine.
- At higher concentrations, Phosphatidylserine preferentially forms water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, making the creation of liposome preparations challenging with PS alone.
- For optimal physiological and microbiome compatibility, formulations, especially oleogels, may benefit from avoiding components such as preservatives, traditional emulsifiers (surfactants), complexing agents, and solvents.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Phosphatidylserine, when considered within the broader category of 'Lecithin and Other Phosphoglycerides,' is safe for use in cosmetics, a determination that superseded a previous 15% concentration limit for related ingredients. Furthermore, the FDA has classified phosphatidylserine derived from soya as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food use, indicating a robust safety profile. No specific safety assessment or opinion by the SCCS for phosphatidylserine in cosmetics was identified.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Phosphatidylserine is a valuable ingredient, offering comprehensive benefits for skin health, including robust anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and anti-aging properties, though its formulation stability necessitates careful consideration.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…