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PENTASODIUM TETRACARBOXYMETHYL HEPTADECANOYL DIPEPTIDE-12.

Valuable / ANTI-SEBUM

PENTASODIUM TETRACARBOXYMETHYL HEPTADECANOYL DIPEPTIDE-12 is a sophisticated autophagy-inducing peptide designed for precision skincare. It effectively addresses concerns ranging from hyperpigmentation and sebum dysregulation to inflammatory conditions like acne, while simultaneously enhancing the skin's barrier function. This multi-functional ingredient offers targeted benefits for a wide array of skin types.

Summary

anti-sebum anti-acne sebum regulator anti-inflammatory skin barrier improving melanin reduction hyperpigmentation treatment skin soothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This peptide operates by stimulating autophagic flux within melanocytes and keratinocytes, which facilitates melanosome degradation and thus reduces melanin content. It further activates autophagy in sebocytes, contributing to the restoration of a healthy hydrolipidic film and the inhibition of excess sebum production. Additionally, it improves overall skin barrier integrity and mitigates inflammatory responses, particularly those induced by *Cutibacterium acnes*.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.001–2%
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

While PENTASODIUM TETRACARBOXYMETHYL HEPTADECANOYL DIPEPTIDE-12 has not been specifically reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (which listed 'Pentapeptide Ingredients' as having insufficient data in September 2023), a dedicated clinical trial found a cream containing this peptide to be safe and well-tolerated. No significant adverse effects or skin irritation were observed during the study. Specific SCCS or FDA status for this ingredient remains undetermined.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PENTASODIUM TETRACARBOXYMETHYL HEPTADECANOYL DIPEPTIDE-12 is a valuable multi-functional peptide, demonstrating clinically proven benefits for hyperpigmentation, sensitive skin, acne, and barrier reinforcement, even at low concentrations.

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