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Moumoujus

PEG-8 SESQUILAURATE.

Questionable / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-8 Sesquilaurate is a polyoxyethylene ester of lauric acid, primarily functioning as a versatile surfactant and emulsifier in cosmetic formulations. While direct research on PEG-8 Sesquilaurate is limited, its properties are largely extrapolated from studies on PEG-8 Laurate and general PEG-8.

Summary

Emulsifying Solubilizer Viscosity controlling Humectant Solvent Surfactant Emollient Lubricant Opacifier Pigment dispersant Spreading aid Skin penetration enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient acts as a surfactant, reducing the surface tension between different phases in a formulation, and an emulsifier, stabilizing oil-in-water or water-in-oil mixtures. It also functions as an emollient, lubricant, and viscosity-modifying agent. As a humectant, the PEG-8 portion binds moisture, providing hydration, while its solvent properties aid in dispersing pigments and enhancing the penetration of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Enhanced diffusion of 3H2O through hairless mouse skin.
  2. 02 Mild sensitizer and irritant.
  3. 03 No enhancement of ketoprofen dermal penetration.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Dusting analysis is not applicable as this ingredient is not typically associated with specific 'active' claims or 'dusting' practices.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-8 Laurate exhibits an optimal pH range of 4.5-7.0 in 3% aqueous solutions. General PEG-8 maintains stability across a broader pH range of 4.0–7.5 and is resistant to moderately strong acids, alkalis, and salt solutions.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems PEG-8 Laurate safe for cosmetic use up to 25%. However, caution is advised for use on broken or irritated skin due to potential for systemic toxicity, as observed in burn patients (e.g., kidney toxicity). Manufacturers must ensure that products containing PEGs are free from harmful impurities such as Ethylene Oxide and 1,4-dioxane, which can arise from the ethoxylation process.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Medium
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

Despite versatile functional roles as an emulsifier and humectant, the absence of direct efficacy and safety data for PEG-8 Sesquilaurate, coupled with potential for irritation, systemic toxicity on compromised skin, and impurity concerns, warrants cautious formulation and limited use in precision skincare.

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