Science
Mechanism of Action
PEG-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer is a succinic acid cross-linked copolymer of PEG-8 dimethicone and polysorbate 20. Its PEG-8 dimethicone component, a water-soluble silicone, delivers emollient benefits by improving skin feel, cushion, and texture. It establishes a protective film on the skin's surface, effectively locking in moisture and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Beyond these skin benefits, it functions as an effective oil-in-water emulsifier and contributes to formulation stability, acting as an absorbent, film former, and slip modifier.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
For optimal stability, formulations containing this ingredient should maintain a pH between 5.5 and 8.5. Hydrolysis rates show 20% degradation at pH 5 after 45 days and at pH 8 after 86 days, at 1% active concentration. It should be incorporated into the water phase and not heated above 50°C (125°F). Alternatively, it can be added to emulsions once the temperature has cooled to 50°C (125°F).
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed PEG-8 Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer, along with 61 other dimethicone crosspolymers, concluding its safety under current practices of use and concentration. While specific maximum concentrations for this exact crosspolymer were not detailed, other dimethicone crosspolymers have been reported in formulations up to 20% in spray products and 46% in powder cosmetics. FDA data collection occurs via the Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP); no specific SCCS opinion was found.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient is valuable for its dual role as an effective emulsion stabilizer and a water-soluble emollient that improves skin texture and hydration.
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