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Moumoujus

PEG-8 DICOCOATE.

Questionable / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-8 DICOCOATE is a multi-functional ingredient that primarily acts as a surfactant and emulsifier, helping to create stable oil-in-water formulations. It also possesses humectant properties, attracting moisture to the skin for enhanced hydration, and can serve as a solvent for other cosmetic components.

Summary

Surfactant Emulsifying Agent Humectant Solvent Viscosity Control Agent Lubricant

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as an effective surfactant and emulsifying agent, promoting the stable dispersion of oil and water phases in cosmetic preparations. Its polyethylene glycol (PEG-8) backbone endows it with humectant properties, enabling it to draw and retain moisture on the skin's surface, thereby enhancing hydration and preventing product desiccation. Furthermore, PEG-8 DICOCOATE can act as a solvent, potentially improving the delivery and penetration of other cosmetic ingredients. A related compound, PEG-8 Propylene Glycol Cocoate, contributes to a smoother skin feel through its lubricating action.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

The polyethylene glycol component (PEG-8) is optimally stable within a pH range of 4.5 to 7.5. Extended exposure to temperatures exceeding 50°C may lead to oxidation and peroxide formation, suggesting the need for antioxidant incorporation in finished products to maintain integrity.

Conflicts

  • Damaged skin (due to increased absorption and potential for irritation or toxicity)
  • Strong oxidizing agents (potential for peroxide formation at elevated temperatures)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed PEG diesters, including PEG-8 DICOCOATE, safe for cosmetic use provided they are formulated to be non-irritating. The FDA also recognizes PEG-8 DICOCOATE as safe for specific, limited use as an indirect food additive. A critical restriction is its contraindication on damaged skin, where enhanced absorption could lead to irritation, sensitization, and, in rare cases (e.g., burn patients), nephrotoxicity. A key safety concern is the potential presence of manufacturing impurities, specifically carcinogenic ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Manufacturers are expected to rigorously remove these by-products, with recommended limits of 1 ppm for ethylene oxide and 10 ppm for 1,4-dioxane in cosmetic ingredients.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity High

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While a functional humectant and emulsifier, PEG-8 DICOCOATE's high comedogenicity, potential for irritation on compromised skin, and risk of impurity contamination render its use questionable for precision skincare applications.

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