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Moumoujus

PEG-55.

Valuable CAS 25322-68-3 / BINDING, HUMECTANT, SOLVENT

PEG-55, commonly found in its esterified forms such as PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, is a multi-functional synthetic polymer prevalent in skincare formulations. It serves as an effective viscosity controlling agent, a mild surfactant, and a solubilizer, contributing significantly to product texture and ingredient dispersion. This versatile ingredient also provides humectant properties, aiding in skin hydration.

Summary

Surfactant/Cleansing Viscosity Controlling Moisturizer/Humectant Solvent Binding Emulsifier Penetration Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a member of the polyethylene glycol (PEG) family, PEG-55 and its derivatives act on several levels within cosmetic formulations. Primarily, it functions as a surfactant and emulsifier, reducing surface tension to enable effective cleansing and the stable mixing of oil and water-based components. It also enhances the solubility of other ingredients like fragrances and essential oils. Furthermore, PEG-55 can attract and bind water molecules through hydrogen bonds, thereby helping to retain moisture in the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss. Certain PEGs are also recognized for their ability to enhance the absorption and delivery of other active ingredients into the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range ≤10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 CIR Expert Panel safety assessments for PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate
  2. 02 Clinical patch tests showing no sensitization for PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate demonstrates stability in cleansing formulations within a pH range of 5 to 8. General PEG solutions are most stable when stored frozen (-20°C), with refrigeration (4°C) offering better stability than room temperature. Degradation can be accelerated by elevated temperatures, light exposure, and the presence of oxygen. Formulators should assess potential degradation as PEG degradation products can be toxic to mammalian cells, and PEGs are sensitive to sonolytic degradation.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate is safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 10%. Clinical patch tests for PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate yielded negative results, indicating a low sensitization risk. The previous caution against using PEG-based ingredients on damaged skin was removed by the CIR Expert Panel in 2010 for general PEGs. While 1,4-dioxane, a byproduct of the ethoxylation process, may be present in small amounts, this can be controlled through purification steps. PEG-55 Stearate has been independently listed as 'Irritant Free' by SkinSAFE.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-55 is a valuable, versatile formulation enhancer, supporting product stability and texture while offering mild hydration and ingredient delivery, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types.

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