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PEG-44 CASTOR OIL.

Questionable CAS 61791-12-6 / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-44 Castor Oil is an ethoxylated derivative of castor oil, containing an average of 44 units of ethylene oxide. It functions primarily as a versatile surfactant, enabling the stable emulsification and solubilization of diverse ingredients in skincare formulations.

Summary

Emulsifier Solubilizer Surfactant Skin conditioning agent Hydrator Anti-inflammatory agent Antimicrobial agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a surfactant, effectively dispersing immiscible liquids and solubilizing oils or fragrances within aqueous systems. Its polyethylene glycol component enhances skin hydration by forming hydrogen bonds with water molecules, thereby supporting the skin's moisture barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss. The inherent properties of castor oil, including its rich fatty acid profile with ricinoleic acid, contribute additional moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and mild antimicrobial benefits to the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

As an ethoxylated oil derivative, PEG-44 Castor Oil is typically supplied in liquid form and does not present concerns related to dusting during handling or formulation.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

The ingredient demonstrates good stability across a range of pH conditions, remaining active in both acidic and alkaline environments. It exhibits resistance to oxidation and chemical degradation, similar to related PEGylated castor oil derivatives.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems PEG-44 Castor Oil safe for use in cosmetics, provided it is formulated to be non-irritating, even at concentrations up to 100%. However, there are noted concerns regarding potential contamination by ethoxylation by-products, such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, necessitating stringent purification. The ingredient has been identified as a 'human skin toxicant or allergen' with strong evidence by the CIR and EWG, indicating a moderate risk for allergies and immunotoxicity in susceptible populations. It should not be applied to broken skin and may potentially heighten the sensitization risk of other ingredients in a formulation.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While effective as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and hydrator, PEG-44 Castor Oil presents moderate sensitization risks, requires careful formulation to ensure non-irritancy, and necessitates purification from ethoxylation by-products, making its use questionable for precision skincare without thorough risk assessment.

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