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PEG-40/PPG-8 METHYLAMINOPROPYL/HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS 177771-32-3 / HAIR CONDITIONING

This ingredient is a high molecular weight, amphiphilic silicone polymer derived from dimethicone. It forms a protective, hydrophobic film on the skin and hair, enhancing texture, preventing moisture loss, and contributing to conditioning.

Hair Conditioning Emollient Film-forming Antistatic Moisture Barrier

Science

As an amphiphilic silicone polymer, this ingredient contains both water-soluble and silicone-soluble groups, enabling versatile integration into formulations. It establishes a hydrophobic barrier on the stratum corneum, effectively preventing transepidermal water loss and the penetration of exogenous substances. On hair, it functions as a conditioning agent, improving combability, promoting softness and shine, and imparting volume through enhanced fiber alignment and frizz reduction. It is also noted for its UV-resistant and non-greasy properties.


Research

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 8.5
0 7 14

Stability

This amphiphilic polymer, integrating polyethylene and polypropylene glycols, exhibits broad viscosity and solubility properties with good skin tolerance. Optimal formulation stability is observed within a pH range of 5.5 to 8.5. A related PEG-8 dimethicone showed 20% hydrolysis over 45 days at pH 5 and 86 days at pH 8, at 1% active concentration, suggesting practical stability within the recommended pH range.

Conflicts

  • Not permitted in organic or natural certified cosmetics due to its ethoxylated nature.

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel has deemed dimethicone crosspolymer ingredients, including this one, safe for use in cosmetics, citing their large molecular weight and minimal skin absorption. The US FDA considers it a skin protector with a good safety profile at low, non-irritating concentrations due to poor absorption. EWG rates common concerns such as cancer, allergies, and developmental/reproductive toxicity as 'LOW'. However, some sources express 'Very Doubtful' concerns due to its ethoxylated nature, mentioning the use of ethylene oxide (a carcinogen) in the ethoxylation process, which might hypothetically compromise skin protection. Specific maximum concentrations for this exact ingredient were not found in CIR reports, though other dimethicone crosspolymers have documented uses up to 7% in face powders and 0.7-3% in rinse-off or leave-on products.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

A versatile amphiphilic silicone polymer highly effective in creating a protective, non-greasy film on skin and hair to enhance texture, reduce moisture loss, and provide conditioning benefits, though its ethoxylated nature may be a consideration for certain clean beauty standards.


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