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PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL TRIISOSTEARATE.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL TRIISOSTEARATE is a synthetic polymer derivative of castor oil, primarily functioning as a surfactant and viscosity modifier in cosmetic formulations. It facilitates the creation of stable emulsions and can influence product texture. While specific skin benefits are largely inferred from its closely related compound, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, it is generally considered safe when properly formulated.

Summary

Surfactant Viscosity Controlling Agent Emulsifier Solubilizer Emollient (inferred from related compound) Cleansing Agent (inferred from related compound)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient primarily acts as a surfactant, effectively lowering the interfacial tension between immiscible liquids like oil and water, thereby enabling the formation and stabilization of emulsions. Additionally, it functions as a viscosity controlling agent, allowing for the precise adjustment of a product's thickness. Information regarding its direct mechanism on skin is limited; however, related compounds like PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil are understood to also exhibit emollient, solubilizing, and cleansing properties, contributing to skin hydration by forming a protective layer that minimizes moisture loss.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 3–100%
Optimal

3-10% for optimal emulsification and solubilization (based on PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil)

Key findings

  1. 01 Studies on formulations containing 20% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil demonstrated no probable irritation to human skin in mouse dermal tests.
  2. 02 A microemulsion gel system with 20.66% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil as a surfactant was found non-irritating in male albino rats.
  3. 03 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil has shown minimal irritation even in concentrations up to 100%, indicating a low irritation potential for the related compound.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data available to suggest this ingredient is commonly associated with dusting issues or specific thresholds for concern.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

The ingredient, specifically PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, exhibits good stability at lower pH levels but may decompose (hydrolyze) in high pH environments. It is chemically robust; however, prolonged exposure to heat can induce phase separation upon cooling. Aqueous solutions can undergo sterilization at 120°C, potentially resulting in a minor decrease in pH.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
100%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that related PEG-30 and -40 hydrogenated castor oils are safe for cosmetic use up to 100%, provided they are formulated to be non-irritating. The FDA has approved PEG-30 and -40 hydrogenated castor oil as both direct and indirect food additives. For leave-on non-coloring hair products, the FDA indicates a maximum use concentration range up to 22% for PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Concerns regarding trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, can be mitigated through purification. The ingredient is allowed for use in EWG VERIFIED products when formulated to prevent irritation. Specific SCCS opinion for PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL TRIISOSTEARATE was not found.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This versatile ingredient is valuable for its primary roles in emulsification, solubilization, and viscosity control, contributing to the formulation elegance and stability across diverse cosmetic products with a generally favorable safety profile when properly formulated.

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