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Moumoujus

PEG-20M.

Valuable CAS 25322-68-3 / BINDING, EMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

PEG-20M is a high molecular weight polyethylene glycol compound extensively used in precision skincare formulations. It functions primarily to attract and retain moisture in the skin, acting as a humectant and emollient, while also enhancing product texture and stability. This versatile ingredient is recognized for its broad compatibility and established safety profile on intact skin.

Summary

Humectant Emollient Emulsifier Vehicle Viscosity Control Agent Emulsion Stabilizer Solvent Solubilizer Binding Agent Consistency Enhancer Softening Agent Fixative

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient primarily acts as a humectant by forming hydrogen bonds with water molecules, thereby drawing moisture into the stratum corneum and reducing transepidermal water loss to maintain skin hydration. Beyond its moisturizing capabilities, PEG-20M serves as an emollient to impart a soft, smooth feel to the skin. Its emulsifying properties allow for the stable blending of oil and water-based ingredients, while its high molecular weight contributes to crucial viscosity control and emulsion stabilization within formulations. It can also function as a vehicle, potentially enhancing the deeper delivery of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Polyethylene glycols, including PEG-20M, demonstrate excellent thermal stability and electrical neutrality, ensuring consistent performance across diverse pH ranges without significant degradation.

Conflicts

  • Application on severely compromised skin, such as second or third-degree burns, must be avoided due to significantly increased absorption rates which could lead to systemic toxicity.
  • Individuals with documented sensitivities to polysorbates should exercise caution, as structural similarities may lead to cross-sensitization.
  • Formulators should minimize peroxide impurities, particularly with lower molecular weight PEGs, to prevent potential degradation of the ingredient.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that PEG-20M is safe for use in cosmetic products when applied to intact skin. It has been shown to be minimally irritating, non-sensitizing, non-mutagenic, and non-carcinogenic. While concerns regarding kidney toxicity were noted in severely burned patients treated with PEG-based antimicrobial creams, no evidence of systemic toxicity has been observed with intact skin. Significant skin penetration occurs only when both the top and underlying layers of the skin are severely damaged (second and third-degree burns). Trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, can be controlled through purification steps. It is imperative that PEGs are not applied to damaged skin. The FDA also permits polyethylene glycols as indirect and direct food additives.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-20M is a valuable, multifunctional ingredient, highly regarded for its hydrating, emollient, and formulation-stabilizing properties, and is deemed safe for broad cosmetic use on intact skin.

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