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PEG-20 SORBITAN OLEATE.

Valuable CAS 9005-65-6 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate is a versatile nonionic surfactant and emulsifier crucial for stable cosmetic formulations. It expertly blends oil and water phases, enhances the penetration of active ingredients, and solubilizes hydrophobic compounds to ensure optimal product performance and ingredient delivery.

Summary

Emulsifier Solubilizer Surfactant Cleansing Agent Penetration Enhancer Hydration Support Barrier Support Antimicrobial Support

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions primarily as a surfactant and emulsifier, reducing interfacial tension between immiscible phases due to its hydrophilic and lipophilic molecular structure. It enables the creation of stable water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, which can contribute to skin barrier protection by minimizing transepidermal water loss, thus supporting skin hydration without a greasy residue. Beyond emulsification, it acts as a solubilizer, facilitating the homogenous dispersion of oil-soluble actives, fragrances, and colorants within aqueous systems. Its nonionic nature also allows for even distribution of other ingredients, like sunscreens, and has demonstrated capabilities in reducing bacterial adhesion and inhibiting biofilm formation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

5%

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data available in the provided research to suggest common dusting concerns or specific thresholds for this ingredient.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

A 5% aqueous solution typically maintains a pH between 5 and 8. Polysorbates generally exhibit good stability when exposed to electrolytes, weak acids, and weak bases. However, gradual saponification may occur in the presence of strong acids or bases. This ingredient is hygroscopic, necessitating checks for water content and drying if required, as prolonged storage can lead to the formation of peroxides.

Conflicts

  • Strong alkalis
  • Heavy metal salts
  • Phenols
  • Tannic acid
  • Certain preservatives (potential to reduce their efficacy)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The CIR Expert Panel considers Polysorbates, including PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate (Polysorbate 80), safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. Testing at 100% concentration indicated it was non-corrosive and non-irritating to living skin equivalents. However, while generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for food and pharmaceuticals, Sorbitan Esters can potentially cause cutaneous irritation and sensitization in individuals with damaged skin. Furthermore, PEGs are more readily absorbed through compromised skin and have been linked to contact dermatitis in burn patients. Individuals with sensitive skin may experience mild irritation, thus a patch test is recommended prior to extensive use.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate is a valuable ingredient, optimizing formulation stability and active ingredient delivery, though caution is advised for compromised or highly sensitive skin types.

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