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Moumoujus

PEG-20 OLEATE.

Valuable CAS 9004-96-0 / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-20 Oleate is a versatile polyethylene glycol derivative of oleic acid, functioning primarily as an emulsifier and surfactant in skincare formulations. It stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions and aids in gentle cleansing, while also contributing to skin hydration and ingredient solubilization.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant Solubilizer Solvent Humectant Consistency Enhancer Binding Agent Softening Agent Fixative

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functioning as a key amphiphilic molecule, PEG-20 Oleate effectively reduces the interfacial tension between immiscible phases, allowing oil and water to form stable emulsions. As a surfactant, it facilitates the removal of impurities from the skin and hair. Beyond its emulsifying and cleansing properties, it acts as a solubilizer and solvent, which can enhance the penetration and delivery of other active ingredients into the skin. Furthermore, this ingredient contributes to improving the skin's intrinsic moisture balance.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data available regarding 'dusting' properties for PEG-20 Oleate.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-20 Oleate exhibits general stability across a range of temperatures, acids, and bases. However, its longevity can be significantly influenced by storage conditions. Elevated temperatures, exposure to light, and the presence of oxygen accelerate degradation. Optimal stability is achieved when solutions are stored frozen at -20°C, followed by refrigerated storage at 4°C, which are more stable than room temperature. Protecting sealed containers from light and purging headspace with inert gases like argon can further mitigate aging effects.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed PEG-20 Oleate, alongside other PEG derivatives, safe for use in cosmetic applications. It demonstrates low oral and dermal toxicity, minimal skin irritation, and is not classified as a sensitizer, mutagen, or carcinogen when applied to intact skin. The prior recommendation against using PEGs on damaged skin has been revised, as significant dermal penetration occurs only in cases of severe damage, such as third-degree burns. Glyceryl monooleate, a constituent of PEG-20 Oleate, is FDA-approved for food use and considered biocompatible, with PEGs of specific molecular weights (200-9,500) also FDA-approved for human consumption, and PEG generally recognized as safe (GRAS). A notable concern, however, is the potential for trace 1,4-dioxane contamination, a synthetic byproduct, which is suspected to be carcinogenic, although the PEGs themselves are not. While generally considered safe, there is a low-level risk of hypersensitivity reactions, including urticaria and anaphylaxis, in individuals predisposed to allergies, necessitating cautious formulation.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-20 Oleate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, integral for stabilizing emulsions, enhancing cleansing, and supporting skin hydration, with a generally favorable safety profile endorsed by the CIR.

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