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PEG-12 DISTEARATE.

Valuable CAS 9005-08-7 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-12 Distearate is a polyethylene glycol diester serving as a multi-functional excipient in skincare formulations. It primarily acts as an emulsifying agent, surfactant, and viscosity modifier, contributing to product stability and texture. Additionally, it offers potential mild humectant properties.

Summary

Emulsifying agent Surfactant (cleansing) Viscosity controlling (thickening) Solubilizer Moisture retention (humectant potential)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates by reducing the surface tension between immiscible liquids, thereby enabling the formation of stable oil-in-water emulsions. As a surfactant, it facilitates the suspension of oils and dirt, allowing for their effective removal during cleansing. It also functions as an associative thickener, increasing the viscosity of liquid formulations, particularly those rich in surfactants. Polyethylene glycol compounds, as a class, are known to form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, which can contribute to enhanced skin hydration and a reduction in transepidermal water loss.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-12 Distearate demonstrates chemical stability under standard ambient conditions. It is prone to hydrolysis in hot alkaline solutions and can undergo saponification when exposed to strong acids or bases. Its melting point is between 35-37°C, often requiring heating for effective dissolution, which is further enhanced by the presence of other surfactants. With an HLB of 18.9, it is well-suited for creating oil-in-water emulsions.

Synergies

  • other surfactants (enhances solubility and dissolution)

Conflicts

  • hot alkaline solutions (hydrolysis)
  • strong acids (saponification)
  • strong bases (saponification)
  • salicylates (discoloration or precipitation)
  • phenolic substances (discoloration or precipitation)
  • iodine salts (discoloration or precipitation)
  • salts of bismuth (discoloration or precipitation)
  • salts of silver (discoloration or precipitation)
  • tannins (discoloration or precipitation)
  • preservatives (complex formation)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, which includes FDA participation, has concluded that PEG-12 Distearate is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. This assessment covers reported 'as used' concentrations, with a maximum concentration of 5.0% deemed safe. Potential impurities, such as 1,4-dioxane, can be effectively managed through standard purification processes, ensuring product safety.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-12 Distearate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, safely used up to 5.0%, primarily enhancing formulation stability and texture while potentially offering mild hydrating benefits to the skin.

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