Science
Mechanism of Action
Pantothenic Acid, often utilized as its derivative Panthenol, functions as both a humectant and an emollient, drawing water into the skin and softening its texture. It plays a crucial role in repairing a compromised skin barrier through its anti-inflammatory actions, which reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Furthermore, it stimulates the proliferation of cells vital for wound healing, promotes new skin cell formation, and boosts collagen production to improve skin elasticity. The ingredient can also influence sebum regulation, indirectly helping to minimize skin impurities and refine pore appearance. Topically applied Panthenol converts to Pantothenic Acid, which then transforms into Coenzyme A (CoA), a key player in lipid metabolism and cellular processes that regulate epidermal barrier function.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceTopical applications for optimal hydration and soothing effects typically range from 5% to 10%. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates maximum concentrations for Panthenol up to 5.3% in leave-on body and hand products.
Key findings
- 01 Formulations containing 5% Pantothenic Acid, such as Cicaplast Baume B5+ Cream, provide intense hydration and nourishment, visibly relieving dryness on both face and body.
- 02 Serums utilizing 10% Pantothenic Acid (Panthenol) effectively hydrate and comfort dry to very dry skin, restoring moisture and strengthening the protective moisture barrier, as observed in products like La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Serum and Minimalist Vitamin B5 10% Moisturizer.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
As a water-soluble vitamin, Pantothenic Acid is stable in aqueous formulations. Its derivative, Panthenol, is highly compatible and generally well-tolerated when combined with most other skincare ingredients, including common hydrators like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides. Skincare products containing Pantothenic Acid are typically formulated within a pH range of 4-7.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
- Ceramides
Safety
Safety Profile
Pantothenic Acid and its related chemicals, such as Dexpanthenol, are considered likely safe for short-term topical use, with Panthenol holding a GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective) rating. The CIR reported maximum concentrations of use for Panthenol up to 5.3% in leave-on body and hand products. While oral intake of Vitamin B5 is generally safe, even at high doses, extremely high oral doses (10,000 mg/day) may lead to minor side effects like upset stomach or diarrhea. An 8-week study on an oral pantothenic acid-based dietary supplement demonstrated a significant reduction in facial blemishes in subjects with mild to moderate acne.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Pantothenic Acid is a valuable, well-tolerated ingredient highly effective in enhancing skin hydration, supporting barrier health, and soothing irritation across all skin types, with a strong safety profile.
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