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OENOTHERA BIENNIS OIL.

Valuable CAS 90028-66-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Oenothera Biennis Oil, also known as Evening Primrose Oil (EPO), is a botanical oil rich in essential fatty acids. It is highly valued for its ability to deeply hydrate, enhance skin barrier function, and soothe irritated skin. This ingredient offers significant skin-conditioning and antioxidant benefits.

Summary

Emollient Antioxidant Skin-conditioning Anti-inflammatory Hydrating Barrier Support

Science

Mechanism of Action

Oenothera Biennis Oil's efficacy stems from its high concentration of essential fatty acids, notably linoleic acid (66-76%) and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, 7-12%). GLA is biologically converted into dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA), which acts as a precursor to anti-inflammatory eicosanoids (prostaglandins series 1), providing anti-inflammatory properties. The oil enhances the skin's barrier function, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sealing in moisture for profound hydration. Its vitamin E content provides antioxidant protection against free radical damage, which can mitigate hyperpigmentation and collagen degradation. Furthermore, EPO calms sensitive and irritated skin, reduces redness, supports cellular regeneration, improves elasticity, and its linoleic acid content can aid in sebum regulation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–20%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical studies demonstrate that Oenothera Biennis Oil, at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 20% in cosmetic formulations, significantly improves skin barrier function and moisture levels.
  2. 02 Evidence suggests its effectiveness in enhancing skin hydration and barrier integrity, even in individuals with skin conditions such as eczema.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

To maintain optimal efficacy, Oenothera Biennis Oil should be stored in a cool, dark environment. It exhibits good oxidative stability. For formulating stable nanoemulsions, a Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance (HLB) of 12 is required.

Conflicts

  • Combining Oenothera Biennis Oil with other heavy oils may result in a formulation that is overly occlusive or rich, particularly for individuals with oily skin types.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
20%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed Oenothera Biennis Oil as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. No systemic concerns have been observed at typical concentrations up to 10% in leave-on formulations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Medium

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Oenothera Biennis Oil is a valuable ingredient, leveraging its rich essential fatty acid profile to provide comprehensive hydration, anti-inflammatory benefits, and barrier support for improved skin health, particularly for dry and sensitive skin types.

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