Science
Mechanism of Action
This cellulose derivative forms a three-dimensional network in aqueous solutions, effectively increasing viscosity and controlling rheological properties. On the skin, it establishes a hydrophilic film that aids in reducing trans-epidermal water loss without creating a heavy, occlusive barrier. Its surfactant properties, derived from the nonoxynol component, enable it to function as an emulsifying stabilizer, ensuring uniform dispersion of oil and water phases to prevent product separation. It can also facilitate the controlled release of active ingredients.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Aqueous solutions of Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethylcellulose exhibit remarkable stability across a broad pH range, specifically from pH 2 to 12, with minimal impact on viscosity. Optimal stability is observed under neutral pH conditions (pH 6 to 8). While stable across this wide range, hydrolysis may occur below pH 5 and oxidation at high pH. As a nonionic cellulose ether, it is readily soluble in both cold and hot water. It is hygroscopic and requires proper storage to prevent moisture absorption and potential clumping.
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Zein
- Anionic and cationic surfactants (may reduce viscosity and stability)
- Certain pigments or stabilizers (potential for phase separation or clumping)
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed nonoxynols, including this derivative, safe for use at concentrations up to 5% in leave-on cosmetic products, provided they are formulated to be non-irritating. The base polymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), is widely recognized as safe, non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-toxic by the CIR Expert Panel, and has FDA approval for cosmetic and indirect food additive uses, as well as being listed as safe by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. It is noted that lower molecular weight nonoxynols, as a class, may exhibit increased irritation potential, emphasizing the importance of proper formulation.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethylcellulose is a valuable ingredient primarily for its robust formulation benefits, acting as a film-former, emulsifier, and rheology modifier, with an established safety profile when used within recommended concentrations.
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References
Sources
- cir-safety.org ↗
- thegoodscentscompany.com ↗
- melacoll.com ↗
- tenessy.com ↗
- pcc.eu ↗
- formunova.com ↗
- kimacellulose.com ↗
- phexcom.com ↗
- chempoint.com ↗
- ihpmc.com ↗
- sumitomoseika.co.jp ↗
- landercoll.com ↗
- nih.gov ↗
- hpmcmanufacturer.com ↗
- patsnap.com ↗
- specialchem.com ↗
- wikipedia.org ↗