Science
Mechanism of Action
Niacinamide functions as a crucial precursor to co-factors NADH and NADPH, which are vital for numerous cellular biochemical reactions and act as significant antioxidants. It substantially enhances skin barrier function by elevating the synthesis of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides, consequently reducing transepidermal water loss and promoting superior skin hydration. Furthermore, it stimulates micro-circulation, increases protein synthesis (such as keratin), and accelerates keratinocyte differentiation. Niacinamide also exhibits notable anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties, and can effectively inhibit the transfer of melanosomes, contributing to a more even skin tone. Yeast-derived polypeptides complement these actions by imparting moisturizing, skin-protecting, and film-forming properties, with certain peptides signaling the skin to enhance new collagen production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 At a concentration of 2%, Niacinamide significantly strengthens the skin barrier by increasing the synthesis of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides, leading to decreased transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.
- 02 Concentrations between 2-4% demonstrate clear efficacy in the treatment of acne, particularly in oily skin types, by showing antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes.
- 03 A 4% concentration of Niacinamide visibly reduces pores and skin unevenness within 8 weeks of consistent use, with further improvements in wrinkles observed after 12 weeks. It also exerts sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties, resulting in improvement in 82% of acne cases over an 8-week period.
- 04 Formulated at 5% in a serum, Niacinamide reduced the appearance of 9 types of expression lines, enhanced skin texture, and boosted radiance in just one week. It has been physician-tested as a complement to neurotoxin injections and demonstrated no irritation in use tests or 21-day cumulative irritation tests.
- 05 Clinically, Niacinamide at a 10% concentration produced no stinging sensation, indicating excellent skin tolerability.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Niacinamide maintains optimal stability within a pH range of 5.0 to 7.0, which is critical to prevent its conversion to nicotinic acid (a potential cause of skin flushing). While stable from pH 3 to 7.5, prolonged exposure to temperatures at or above 75°C, especially at lower pH values, should be minimized. For best practice, Niacinamide should be incorporated into formulations during the cool-down phase, specifically below 70°C. Peptides, generally water soluble, exhibit solubility variations based on their unique amino acid composition.
Conflicts
- Strongly acidic formulations (below pH 4.5), which can induce the conversion of Niacinamide to nicotinic acid, potentially leading to skin flushing.
- Strongly alkaline formulations (above pH 7.5), which can compromise the effectiveness of Niacinamide over time.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that Niacinamide and Niacin are safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. Clinical data indicates Niacinamide is exceptionally well-tolerated, with no stinging reported at concentrations up to 10% and no irritation observed at 5% in cumulative irritation tests. Furthermore, Niacinamide is considered safe at current concentrations of use within the EU and is not subject to restrictions. For yeast-derived components, the CIR Expert Panel noted a need for more specific clarification regarding the exact yeast species utilized in cosmetic manufacturing.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Niacinamide/Yeast Polypeptide is a highly valuable, multifunctional ingredient, offering extensive benefits from robust skin barrier support and anti-acne efficacy to anti-aging and skin brightening effects, making it exceptionally compatible with nearly all skin types and concerns.
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References
Sources