Science
Mechanism of Action
This amphiphilic molecule, possessing both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, functions by effectively disrupting and dispersing oils and particulate matter on the skin, thereby facilitating their removal during cleansing. Furthermore, it contributes to formulation integrity by increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase, stabilizing and amplifying foam generation, and reducing static charge.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Myristamide DEA is generally stable in neutral to moderately acidic or alkaline systems. However, it is susceptible to hydrolysis when exposed to high concentrations of strong mineral acids or alkalis. A 10% aqueous dispersion typically exhibits a pH range of 9.5 to 10.5.
Conflicts
- Nitrosating agents: Strict avoidance is necessary due to the risk of forming carcinogenic N-nitrosamines.
- High concentrations of mineral acids or alkali: May lead to hydrolysis and compromise ingredient stability.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems Myristamide DEA safe for rinse-off products. For leave-on applications, it is considered safe at concentrations limiting free ethanolamine release to 5% and with a maximum use concentration of 40%. Products must not contain nitrosating agents to prevent N-nitrosamine formation. The raw material should have a secondary amine content not exceeding 5% and a maximum nitrosamine content of 50 microg/kg. Formulations must be stored in nitrite-free containers. The FDA currently finds no cause for consumer concern when products are properly labeled and safe.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Myristamide DEA is a valuable surfactant and formulation enhancer, provided strict adherence to its established safety restrictions, particularly concerning N-nitrosamine formation and free ethanolamine levels.
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References
Sources