Science
Mechanism of Action
This compound primarily functions to impart a distinct scent. On the skin, its critical concern arises from its capacity to absorb UV radiation. This absorption initiates the production of reactive oxygen species, which are highly damaging molecules that can compromise skin cells, manifesting as redness, irritation, and heightened sensitivity. Furthermore, as a secondary amine, Methyl N-methylanthranilate is susceptible to nitrosation, a process that can generate nitrosamines, recognized as potential carcinogens. The substance is metabolized within the body, primarily undergoing hydrolysis to N-methylanthranilic acid in both the liver and skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.1%
Key findings
- 01 An in vitro test indicated phototoxicity at this minimal dilution (SCCS/1068/06 Opinion).
- 02 In human subjects, a No Observed Adverse Effect Level (NOAEL) for phototoxicity was established with exposure to 16 J UVA/cm² (and 0.75 MED UVB) (SCCS/1068/06 Opinion).
- 03 Studies on human skin exposed to these concentrations under UV doses representative of typical outdoor activities (excluding sunbathing) did not elicit phototoxic reactions. However, it is not recommended for sunscreens or products marketed for intense UV exposure. For other leave-on products intended for sun-exposed areas, 0.1% is considered safe (SCCS Scientific Advice SCCS/1616/20).
- 04 Phototoxic effects were observed in 14 out of 35 female volunteers (SCCP/1068/06 Opinion).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
An in vitro test identified phototoxicity at concentrations as low as 0.05%, indicating a low threshold for potential adverse reactions. Human studies further confirmed phototoxic effects at 1%, underscoring a clear concentration-dependent risk. Regulatory bodies have established strict maximum concentration limits to mitigate these concerns.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The stability profile of Methyl N-methylanthranilate, particularly regarding nitrosamine formation, is influenced by the pH of the surrounding medium and the presence of nitrosating compounds. For optimal stability, it should be stored in a cool, dry environment within a well-sealed container, away from oxidizing agents.
Conflicts
- nitrosating agents
- sunscreen products
- products marketed for exposure to natural/artificial UV light
Safety
Safety Profile
The SCCS has concluded that Methyl N-methylanthranilate is safe for use up to 0.1% in leave-on products, with the critical exclusion of sunscreens and products marketed for intense or prolonged UV exposure. It is also deemed safe up to 0.2% in rinse-off formulations. It is imperative to avoid combining it with nitrosating agents, and the nitrosamine content in the final product must not exceed 50 μg/kg. The ingredient is classified as an eye irritant under GB CLP regulation. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) restricts its use to 0.1% in leave-on products due to its recognized phototoxic effects.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While permissible as a fragrance ingredient under stringent concentration limits and usage restrictions, its inherent phototoxicity and potential for nitrosamine formation make Methyl N-methylanthranilate a questionable choice for precision skincare formulations, especially in leave-on products.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources