Science
Mechanism of Action
This advanced botanical ingredient, similar to other Melissa officinalis preparations, is concentrated with bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, terpenoids, and phenolic acids like rosmarinic acid. Its primary actions on the skin involve powerful antioxidant activity, effectively neutralizing skin-damaging free radicals and reducing Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) production, which helps prevent premature aging. It demonstrates significant protective effects against photoaging by inhibiting blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity and preventing IR-induced elastin alteration and Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) release. Additionally, it exhibits anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe irritated skin, along with antiviral and antimicrobial effects, contributing to overall skin health and resilience. It may also support skin hydration, elasticity, and renewal.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In vitro studies using cultured Melissa officinalis cells demonstrated significant antioxidant activity by reducing Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) production. This protective effect extended to mitigating oxidative stress, blue light, and infrared (IR) damage, specifically by inhibiting blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity and preventing IR-induced elastin alteration and MMP-1 release, suggesting robust anti-photoaging benefits.
- 02 Aqueous Melissa officinalis extracts exhibited antioxidant and antiangiogenic effects, with higher concentrations (100-1000 µg/mL) showing increased efficacy in reducing thin capillaries and enhancing antioxidant activity.
- 03 N-butanol Melissa officinalis extracts achieved maximum DPPH and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities at 0.4 mg/mL and 0.5 mg/mL, respectively, with lipid peroxyl scavenging activity reaching 93.20% at 5 mg/mL.
- 04 Melissa extracts demonstrated high virucidal activity against herpes simplex virus type 1 (HSV-1) at 1.5 μg/mL and inhibited HSV-2 replication at non-toxic concentrations of volatile oils (25-200 μg/mL).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No data suggests Melissa Officinalis Callus Lysate is commonly used at sub-efficacious concentrations purely for marketing purposes.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The active phenolic components, including rosmarinic acid, are predominantly water-soluble. Rosmarinic acid is sensitive to thermal degradation, particularly above 100-150°C. While a specific optimal pH for the lysate is not defined, general Melissa officinalis water extracts maintain stability within a pH range of approximately 5.99-6.43. The ingredient is generally compatible with various carrier systems and can be integrated into controlled release formulations to enhance its stability and activity.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically evaluated MELISSA OFFICINALIS CALLUS LYSATE. However, 'BALM LEAVES, EXTRACT (MELISSA OFFICINALIS L.)' is recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for food use. General Melissa officinalis extracts have a long history of safe use in traditional applications, with studies indicating non-genotoxicity and no adverse effects in oral toxicity studies at concentrations up to 5.0% for an aqueous extract. No specific safety opinion from the SCCS is available for this exact ingredient.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Melissa Officinalis Callus Lysate is a valuable ingredient, providing comprehensive antioxidant protection against environmental stressors, contributing to anti-photoaging, and offering soothing benefits for various skin types.
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References
Sources