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Moumoujus

LINOLEAMIDE DEA.

Questionable CAS 56863-02-6 / ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Linoleamide DEA is a synthetic surfactant derived from fatty acids, primarily utilized in cosmetic formulations for its ability to enhance foam, stabilize emulsions, and increase viscosity. It also acts as a conditioning agent for both skin and hair.

Summary

Surfactant Viscosity Increasing Agent Emulsifier Foam Stabilizer Conditioner Emollient Thickener

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a surfactant by reducing surface tension, which allows it to stabilize foam and improve wetting properties. Its long chain length enables it to act as an effective emulsifier, blending oils and water, and as a viscosity-increasing agent, thickening the aqueous phase of products. Additionally, it provides conditioning benefits to the skin and hair.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–12%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 The CIR Expert Panel concluded Linoleamide DEA is safe for cosmetic use within concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% for general applications, and up to 12% in rinse-off formulations. This safety assessment is contingent on careful formulation to ensure non-irritancy, maintain safe levels of residual diethanolamine (DEA), and avoid co-formulation with nitrosating agents.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Linoleamide DEA is a liquid ingredient primarily used as a surfactant and thickener, not typically associated with dusting practices or threshold considerations.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Linoleamide DEA exhibits stability in neutral, moderately alkaline, and moderately acidic systems. However, it is susceptible to hydrolysis when exposed to high concentrations of strong mineral acids or alkali.

Conflicts

  • Nitrosating agents (due to the potential formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines)
  • High concentrations of mineral acids (risk of hydrolysis)
  • High concentrations of alkali (risk of hydrolysis)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
12%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The CIR Expert Panel deems Linoleamide DEA safe for cosmetic use under specific conditions: formulations must be non-irritating, free diethanolamine (DEA) levels must not exceed safe thresholds, and it must not be combined with nitrosating agents to prevent nitrosamine formation. Animal studies indicated that undiluted or highly concentrated Linoleamide DEA can be a mild to moderate eye irritant and a mild to severe skin irritant. The FDA has not identified reasons for consumer alarm based on current usage. However, a 1998 NTP study linked topical DEA application to cancer in lab animals, potentially due to residual DEA. Consequently, DEA has been listed on California's Proposition 65 as a cancer-causing agent since 2012.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While Linoleamide DEA offers effective functional benefits as a surfactant and thickener, its association with diethanolamine (DEA) and the potential for nitrosamine formation raise significant safety concerns, positioning it as a questionable choice for precision skincare.

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