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LAWSONIA INERMIS CERA.

Questionable CAS 84988-66-9 / HAIR CONDITIONING

Lawsonia Inermis Cera, derived from the henna plant, is recognized for its multifaceted benefits on the skin. It acts as a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, while also demonstrating efficacy in promoting wound healing and possessing antimicrobial properties.

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Wound Healing Antimicrobial Antifungal Antipruritic

Science

This ingredient functions through several key pathways. It provides robust antioxidant protection via flavonoids and lawsone, which neutralize free radicals and reactive oxygen species, enhancing endogenous antioxidant enzymes. Its anti-inflammatory action involves down-regulating pro-inflammatory markers such as COX-2, iNOS, TNF-α, and IL-6, and suppressing NF-κB p65 activity. Lawsonia Inermis Cera also exhibits antimicrobial and antifungal effects by disrupting microbial membranes and inhibiting bacterial DNA gyrase. For wound repair, it accelerates closure, increases collagen synthesis and angiogenesis, and has demonstrated antipruritic (anti-itch) properties.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A 1% henna ointment significantly improved wound healing and reduced itch in patients with Epidermolysis Bullosa, demonstrating acceptable effects on skin characteristics.
  2. 02 Topical gels containing 5–10% henna extract were observed to accelerate wound closure in rat models.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Concerns regarding this ingredient primarily revolve around the genotoxicity potential of its active component, lawsone, and the risks associated with adulterants, rather than underdosing for efficacy.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Lawsone, a critical active component of henna, is susceptible to degradation upon exposure to light and oxygen, necessitating careful storage conditions to maintain its efficacy.

Conflicts

  • Adulteration with para-phenylenediamine (PPD), commonly found in 'black henna', can induce severe delayed hypersensitivity reactions.

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Low

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has raised doubts regarding the genotoxicity and mutagenicity potential of lawsone, the primary active ingredient, indicating that a safe threshold cannot be established from current data. While a Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) showed it not to be a skin sensitizer at 10% in petrolatum, rare cases of contact allergy have been reported. High ethanolic concentrations (80%) of Lawsonia inermis have demonstrated teratogenic effects in mouse embryos, suggesting it is not safe for use during pregnancy.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Questionable

While Lawsonia Inermis Cera offers documented benefits in antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing capacities at clinically studied concentrations, significant concerns regarding the genotoxicity of its active component, lawsone, and its teratogenic potential at high concentrations necessitate extreme caution and warrant against its general use in precision skincare.


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