Science
Mechanism of Action
Laureth-23 operates by reducing surface tension between immiscible substances, enabling oil and water to mix effectively due to its molecular structure possessing both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics. This allows it to attract and suspend impurities for efficient cleansing. As an emulsifier with a high HLB value of 16.9, it stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions. It further acts as a solubilizer for incorporating small quantities of oily ingredients into aqueous formulas and forms a subtle occlusive film on the skin, indirectly supporting hydration by minimizing transepidermal water loss, contributing to a soft and supple skin feel. It also enhances product texture and consistency.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Evaluated as a primary surfactant, Laureth-23 demonstrated low irritant potential and good cleansing efficacy, particularly when formulated with mild amphoteric and anionic surfactants.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Laureth-23 exhibits broad pH stability, with a 1% solution maintaining stability between pH 5.0 and 8.0. It is stable in acidic conditions but can undergo hydrolysis at elevated pH levels. For optimal integration, it should typically be introduced into the oil phase and heated past the melting point of the highest melting point component, with both oil and water phases combined at identical temperatures. It remains chemically inert to hydrolytic degradation and shows strong compatibility with low HLB emulsifiers.
Synergies
- compatible with low HLB emulsifiers
Conflicts
- sensitive to hydrolysis at high pH
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deemed Laureth-23 safe for cosmetic use, provided formulations are non-irritating, a conclusion reaffirmed in 2003. A primary concern is the potential presence of 1,4-dioxane, a byproduct of the ethoxylation process and a known animal carcinogen. However, advanced manufacturing and purification methods effectively control and reduce 1,4-dioxane levels to safe thresholds. The FDA monitors product safety for 1,4-dioxane rather than approving individual cosmetic ingredients. It is listed under California Prop 65 due to its contaminants (1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide), which are known to cause cancer, birth defects, or reproductive harm. It complies with European Union Cosmetics Regulation for use in marketed products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Laureth-23 is a valuable multi-functional ingredient known for its effective cleansing, emulsifying, and solubilizing properties, with a low irritant potential when formulated responsibly to mitigate concerns like 1,4-dioxane.
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