Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient works synergistically by leveraging the distinct benefits of Lactobacillus ferments and hydrolyzed pea seed extract. Lactobacillus ferments are understood to bolster the skin's natural barrier, soothe irritation, and promote a balanced skin microbiome. They also function as humectants to enhance hydration, provide antioxidant defense against environmental stressors, and support healthy cell renewal while balancing skin pH. Furthermore, they exhibit anti-inflammatory effects and can contribute to reducing hyperpigmentation by moderating tyrosinase activity and producing antimicrobial peptides. The hydrolysis of pea seed proteins, a process optimized by fermentation, breaks them down into smaller, more bioavailable peptides and amino acids. These components are crucial for superior skin conditioning, deep moisturization, and supporting the skin's inherent resilience and elasticity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 An in-vivo study involving 5 participants demonstrated a 47% reduction in facial redness when utilizing a related probiotic ingredient, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate, at a 5% concentration.
- 02 Broader Lactobacillus extracts are noted for their potential to stimulate beta-defensins in skin cells, which may aid in reducing or preventing microbial growth, assisting in acne management, and decreasing skin sensitivity. These effects have been observed within a concentration range of 0.001% to 50%, with preferred usage between 1% and 20% for optimal results.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient functions as an active ferment filtrate, typically incorporated into the aqueous phase of formulations, making it unsuitable for 'dusting' as a standalone percentage claim without context. Its antimicrobial properties also contribute to formulation integrity rather than being a marker for insufficient concentration.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient thrives in an acidic environment, optimally stable within a pH range of 4.0 to 5.0. The natural fermentation process of pea protein can inherently lower the pH to this range. Furthermore, it contributes to product preservation by exhibiting antimicrobial activity, inhibiting the proliferation of undesirable bacteria and fungi.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that a broader category of Lactobacillus ferments, including Lactobacillus Ferment and its filtrates/lysates, are safe for use in cosmetic applications. While this specific pea seed extract variant is not individually assessed, it generally falls under this safe classification. The CIR Panel advises cosmetic formulators to ensure that any potential skin lightening effects, attributed to tyrosinase inhibition, do not inadvertently lead to unintended skin depigmentation.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient offers a multi-faceted approach to skin health, combining probiotic benefits for barrier strength and microbiome balance with nutrient-rich pea peptides for enhanced conditioning and resilience, making it a valuable addition to diverse formulations.
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References
Sources