Science
Mechanism of Action
This biocompatible and biodegradable copolymer, commonly known as PLGA, operates primarily as a targeted ingredient delivery system. It forms sub-micron structures, such as microspheres or nanoparticles, that encapsulate active compounds. These carriers selectively break down via hydrolysis in the presence of water within the skin's deeper layers, facilitating improved penetration and amplifying the overall impact of the formula. Additionally, as PLGA degrades, it liberates its monomeric units: lactic acid and glycolic acid. These released alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) then contribute to skin conditioning by delicately exfoliating dead skin cells and enhancing the skin's capacity to bind moisture, leading to improved hydration.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The copolymer maintains stability under typical storage conditions but should be protected from excessive heat, open flames, prolonged moisture exposure, and direct sunlight. It degrades through hydrolysis of its ester linkages in the presence of water, a process accelerated by strong acids or strong bases. The degradation rate is precisely influenced by factors such as the molar ratio of lactic to glycolic acid, molecular weight, crystallinity, glass transition temperature (Tg), and particle size.
Synergies
- Encapsulated active ingredients (peptides, anti-aging compounds, skin whitening agents) for enhanced penetration and efficacy.
Conflicts
- strong acids
- strong bases
- oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
While the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has not specifically assessed the copolymer, its monomeric units, Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid, are considered safe under specific conditions. These include concentrations up to 10% in cosmetic products with a final pH ≥ 3.5, provided the formulation avoids increasing sun sensitivity and includes instructions for daily sun protection. For professional salon products, up to 30% is deemed safe at pH ≥ 3.0 for brief, discontinuous use by trained professionals with sun protection. Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer (PLGA) itself is a biocompatible and biodegradable polymer, approved by the U.S. FDA for use in various therapeutic devices and is a well-established approach in high-end skincare.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This copolymer is a valuable ingredient for advanced skincare formulations, acting as a precision delivery system to significantly enhance active penetration and offering secondary benefits of gentle exfoliation and hydration.
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