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Ingredient directory

Kojic Isopalmitate

Kojic Isopalmitate is a stable ester derivative of kojic acid, renowned for its skin brightening properties. It effectively addresses hyperpigmentation by targeting melanin synthesis with reduced irritation potential compared to its parent compound. This ingredient is versatile and well-tolerated across various skin types and formulations.

Directory entry · Individual source review pending

This profile is awaiting an individual source review. Treat its ratings, dose estimates and compatibility labels as provisional; they are not medical advice or proof of a finished product’s effects.

Skin Brightening Agent Emollient Hyperpigmentation Reducer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a skin lightening agent by actively inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production. Upon application, esterases within skin cells hydrolyze Kojic Isopalmitate, precisely releasing kojic acid directly into the skin. The liberated kojic acid then effectively chelates the copper ion at tyrosinase's active site, thereby impeding the conversion of DOPAchrome into DHICA and subsequently decelerating the formation of melanin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3.0-5.0%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated effectiveness and safety as a therapeutic agent for melasma within a combination cream, leading to a 51-57% reduction in hyperpigmentation among subjects without inducing skin irritation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Kojic Isopalmitate exhibits superior stability against light, heat, and oxidation compared to pure kojic acid, maintaining efficacy across a broad pH range of 3 to 10. It does not chelate metal ions directly. For enhanced stability, formulators should consider incorporating antioxidant excipients and formulating it within the internal oil phase of oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

Generally considered a non-toxic and safe cosmetic ingredient when utilized within recommended concentrations of 1-5%. While its parent compound, Kojic Acid, has specific regulatory concentration limits due to potential irritation, Kojic Isopalmitate is a more stable and less irritating derivative. Concentrations exceeding 5% may elevate the risk of skin irritation or sensitization. It is not classified as a drug by the FDA.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Kojic Isopalmitate is a valuable ingredient for precision skincare, offering effective and stable skin brightening with a low irritation profile across a wide range of formulations and skin types.

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