Science
Mechanism of Action
As an ester of glycolic acid, Isostearyl Glycolate acts upon the upper epidermal layer, specifically the stratum corneum. It works to weaken the lipid bonds that secure dead skin cells, thereby facilitating their natural shedding and promoting cellular turnover. Concurrently, the isostearyl portion of the molecule contributes emollient properties, enhancing skin's suppleness and smoothness.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence10%
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No data indicates that Isostearyl Glycolate is commonly dusted in cosmetic formulations for deceptive marketing practices. Its mechanism of action as an AHA typically requires specific, effective concentrations to deliver benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability and safety for Isostearyl Glycolate in leave-on cosmetic applications are observed at a final formulation pH of 3.5 or higher when concentrations do not exceed 10%. For rinse-off professional treatments up to 30%, a pH of 3.0 or higher is indicated. As an ester, it is susceptible to hydrolysis, a process influenced by pH that can impact its integrity. Formulations must account for the glycolate component's tendency to increase skin's sun sensitivity, necessitating explicit sun protection instructions for the end-user. General incompatibilities can include exposure to excessive moisture and heat.
Conflicts
- Moisture
- Heat
- Formulations without sun protection
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Isostearyl Glycolate, as a simple ester of glycolic acid, is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 10% when the final pH is 3.5 or greater. This safety is conditional on formulations being developed to avoid increasing sun sensitivity, or by explicitly recommending daily sun protection. For professional salon use (up to 30% at pH >=3.0), specific conditions apply, including professional application, thorough rinsing, and sun protection. No specific opinion from the SCCS was found. While not individually approved by the New Zealand EPA, it is permitted as a component within group-standard-approved products. It is not listed on EWG's Restricted or Unacceptable Lists. Direct irritancy and comedogenicity data are not available.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Isostearyl Glycolate is a valuable ingredient, providing both effective chemical exfoliation and emollient benefits when precisely formulated within established pH and concentration guidelines, and with clear sun protection directives.
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