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ISOSTEARAMIDE DEA.

Questionable CAS 52794-79-3 / ANTISTATIC, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Isostearamide DEA is a nonionic surfactant, primarily utilized for its ability to enhance foam and modulate the viscosity of aqueous cosmetic formulations. Its unique molecular structure also contributes to emulsion stability and provides mild conditioning to the skin.

Summary

Nonionic Surfactant Foam Boosting Agent Aqueous Viscosity Increasing Agent Antistatic Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

Isostearamide DEA functions as a nonionic surfactant, effectively boosting foam generation and increasing the aqueous viscosity of cosmetic formulations. Its bulky molecular structure aids in viscosity modification and helps stabilize emulsions by preventing static charge buildup. It is also noted for providing a mild and moisturizing feel to the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In a formulation containing 8.0% Isostearamide DEA, six out of 18 subjects developed questionable reactions, and one subject experienced a mild reaction, as reported by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 8 – 10.5
0 7 14

Stability

Isostearamide DEA exhibits optimal stability within an alkaline pH range of 8.0 to 10.5, a characteristic inferred from chemically similar diethanolamides. It is soluble in organic solvents and effectively disperses into the aqueous phase of cosmetic formulations.

Conflicts

  • Nitrosating systems
  • Nitrite-containing containers

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
40%
Sensitization risk Moderate

Isostearamide DEA is deemed safe for rinse-off products. In leave-on formulations, its use is restricted to concentrations that limit the release of free ethanolamines to a maximum of 5%, with an overall maximum use concentration of 40%. It is critical that this ingredient not be used in cosmetic products where N-nitroso compounds may form. The EU Cosmetics Directive further restricts its use, mandating a maximum secondary amine content of 0.5% in the finished product, a raw material secondary amine content not exceeding 5%, and a maximum nitrosamine content of 50 microg/kg. Products must also be stored in nitrite-free containers. The FDA acknowledges animal studies by the National Toxicology Program linking topical application of DEA-related ingredients to cancer, but emphasizes no direct link to human cancer has been established with current use. Consumers are advised to review ingredient lists if they wish to avoid DEA-related compounds.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While offering functional benefits like foam boosting and viscosity adjustment, Isostearamide DEA's use is subject to significant regulatory restrictions, including concerns about N-nitroso compound formation and potential for skin reactions, raising questions for its broad application in precision skincare.

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