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Moumoujus

ISOPROPYL THIOGLYCOLATE.

Avoid CAS 7383-61-1 / HAIR WAVING OR STRAIGHTENING

An ester of Thioglycolic Acid, Isopropyl Thioglycolate is primarily recognized for its role in altering hair structure, facilitating permanent waving, straightening, and chemical depilation. While its parent compound can influence skin exfoliation, the ingredient's direct application in general skincare is not its primary function.

Summary

Hair Straightening Hair Waving Depilatory Exfoliant (via parent compound, Thioglycolic Acid)

Science

Mechanism of Action

Isopropyl Thioglycolate functions by disrupting the disulfide bonds within keratin proteins, predominantly in hair, which enables structural modification for waving or straightening, or chemical removal. For skin, its parent compound, thioglycolic acid, has been observed to promote epidermal exfoliation and tissue regeneration.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Isopropyl Thioglycolate's primary mechanism involves significant alteration of protein structures, typically for hair. Its documented use is for specific, high-impact applications like permanent hair waving, straightening, or removal, rather than 'dusting' for subtle skincare benefits. Higher concentrations are explicitly associated with irritancy and require minimized skin exposure.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Thioglycolate solutions generally exhibit a broad pH stability range, typically between 4.5 and 10. The ingredient is susceptible to oxidation upon air exposure, necessitating airtight packaging or the incorporation of antioxidants. Stability has been observed to be superior in glass bottles compared to polyolefin, and can be further enhanced with chelating agents, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

Synergies

  • Antioxidants
  • Chelating agents (e.g., EDTA)

Conflicts

  • Oxidizing agents
  • Air exposure

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
15.2%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk High

The CIR Expert Panel determined Isopropyl Thioglycolate is safe for use in certain hair products up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid), under restricted conditions that include avoiding skin contact for hairdressers and minimizing consumer exposure. It is recognized as a skin irritant and sensitizer, capable of causing minimal to severe ocular irritation, with the severity of dermal manifestations being concentration-dependent. Furthermore, the application of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives to eyelashes has been prohibited in the EU since July 11, 2013.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Due to its significant risk of skin irritation and sensitization, and its primary utility being in hair alteration rather than general skincare, Isopropyl Thioglycolate is not recommended for precision skincare formulations.

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