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Moumoujus

INULA HELENIUM EXTRACT.

Avoid CAS 84012-20-4 / FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING

Inula Helenium Extract, derived from the Elecampane plant, is a botanical ingredient offering a range of potential skin benefits. It acts as a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, aids in combating environmental pollutants, and supports skin hydration and reparative processes.

Summary

masking skin conditioning antioxidant emollient anti-inflammatory anti-pollution anti-aging humectant wound healing detoxification antimicrobial

Science

Mechanism of Action

Inula Helenium Extract exerts its effects by actively neutralizing free radicals, thereby providing antioxidant protection against UV radiation and reactive oxygen species-induced damage. Its anti-inflammatory properties help mitigate skin swelling, erythema, and itching through the inhibition of inflammatory cascades and pro-inflammatory cytokine production. The extract further supports skin health by stimulating fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, which are crucial for wound healing. Rich in inulin, it functions as both an emollient and a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin for enhanced hydration and smoothness. Additionally, it exhibits anti-pollution and detoxification capabilities, improving skin barrier function to reduce transepidermal water loss and diminish signs of aging like wrinkles, while also showing antimicrobial activity against certain bacteria.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–20%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Cosmetic formulations containing Inula Helenium Extract within concentrations of 0.1% to 20% (w/w), with specific tests at 0.5% to 2%, demonstrated anti-pollution and anti-aging effects, including a reduction in wrinkles, brown spots, and red spots, alongside improved skin hydration.
  2. 02 At 1% to 2% concentrations, the extract provided protective effects against various toxins such as methanol, gasoline, and formaldehyde in an aqueous cell culture model.
  3. 03 Topical applications of preparations based on Inula Helenium were observed to reduce skin swelling, erythema, and itching, while also accelerating reparative processes through enhanced fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, beneficial for conditions like eczema, dermatitis, and wound healing.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk High

The German Commission E disproved the therapeutic use of elecampane root in the 1980s due to insufficient evidence for efficacy and a notable risk of adverse effects. It has been designated as an 'unapproved' medicinal herb, with anecdotal reports suggesting potential inflammatory responses and family/genus-related allergens. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) explicitly prohibits its use as a fragrance ingredient due to a high risk of dermal sensitization. Furthermore, the European Union identifies it as a 'Known human immune system toxicant or allergen', and EWG categorizes it as 'Unacceptable' for VERIFIED products due to 'Allergies & Immunotoxicity' and 'Use Restrictions'. While listed by the FDA as a natural flavoring substance for food, this does not pertain to its safety for topical cosmetic applications.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite demonstrating promising efficacy in anti-pollution, anti-aging, and skin repair, Inula Helenium Extract carries a high risk of dermal sensitization and allergic reactions, leading to its classification as an ingredient to avoid in precision skincare formulations.

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