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Moumoujus

HYPERICUM PERFORATUM OIL.

Insufficient Data CAS 68917-49-7 / 84082-80-4 / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hypericum perforatum oil, derived from St. John's wort, is a botanical oil recognized for its multi-functional properties, including potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative effects on the skin. It supports skin healing and moisturization while offering protective benefits.

Summary

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Antimicrobial/antibacterial Wound healing Moisturizing Skin conditioning Emollient

Science

Mechanism of Action

This oil contains key bioactives such as naphthodianthrones (e.g., hypericin), phloroglucinols (e.g., hyperforin), flavonoids, and other antioxidants. It neutralizes free radicals, thereby protecting skin proteins from oxidative damage. Its anti-inflammatory action helps calm irritation and reduce redness. Hyperforin specifically stimulates keratinocyte growth and differentiation, contributing to accelerated skin regeneration and wound healing. Furthermore, it supports skin barrier function by moisturizing and reducing flaking, and may enhance skin elasticity through collagen stimulation, addressing the appearance of fine lines.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Topical application of Hypericum oil containing Hypericin at 110 µg/mL demonstrated a photometric trend towards increased photosensitivity; however, no visible change in erythema was detected.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Hypericum perforatum oil is lipophilic, typically prepared by maceration in carrier oils. A critical concern is the stability of hyperforin (approximately 0.6% in fresh oil), which degrades rapidly (within days under light exposure, weeks under light protection). Stability can be extended to approximately 6 months by adding 2-octyldodecanol-1 and rigorously excluding oxygen. Optimal storage requires darkness and low temperatures. The specific composition and stability are highly variable based on sourcing, processing, and storage conditions. One commercial product reported a pH of 4.11.

Conflicts

  • Direct sunlight exposure after application due to photosensitization.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel currently deems available data insufficient to support the safety of Hypericum Perforatum Extract and Oil in cosmetics. A primary concern is its photosensitizing capacity, largely attributed to hypericin, which can increase skin sensitivity to light and lead to accelerated sunburn. It is strongly advised to avoid direct sun exposure after application or use it exclusively post-sun exposure. While mixtures of the extract and oil were not irritants or sensitizers in animal or human clinical studies, a Safety Data Sheet suggests the oil *may* cause skin irritation (H315) and allergic reactions (H317), though this may pertain to essential oil concentrations. The FDA approves hypericin-free alcohol distillate of Hypericum perforatum only as a flavoring substance in alcoholic beverages.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Insufficient Data

While offering diverse potential benefits for skin health, Hypericum perforatum oil's safety is currently limited by insufficient data from the CIR, and its significant photosensitizing properties necessitate cautious formulation and usage recommendations.

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