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Moumoujus

HYPERICUM PERFORATUM FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACT.

Questionable CAS 84082-80-4 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf Extract, derived from St. John's Wort, is a botanical ingredient recognized for its multifaceted benefits, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It aims to soothe irritated skin, improve hydration, and offer protection against environmental stressors, contributing to a healthier skin appearance.

Summary

antimicrobial astringent masking skin conditioning skin protecting soothing tonic

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract functions through active constituents like hyperforin and hypericin. Hyperforin stimulates keratinocyte growth and differentiation, while hypericin, along with other components, provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and inhibits protein alteration. Its anti-inflammatory action soothes erythema, while antimicrobial properties benefit acne-prone skin and manage body odor. Furthermore, it aids in moisturizing dry skin, reducing flaking, and supporting gentle exfoliation for brighter skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.00002–0.07%
Optimal

0.07%

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated this ingredient for safety across a broad concentration range (0.00002% to 0.07%). The primary formulation consideration revolves around managing its photosensitizing potential rather than concerns about sub-effective concentrations for marketing purposes.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The stability of hypericin, a photosensitizing compound, is a critical factor. Extracts prepared with propylene glycol or glycerol-water solvents generally exhibit enhanced water solubility and stability. The specific properties and composition of the extract are highly dependent on the choice of extraction solvent, such as water, glycols, ethanol, or various oils.

Conflicts

  • Direct sunlight exposure due to photosensitivity induced by hypericin.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
0.07%
Sensitization risk High

The CIR Expert Panel concluded in 2014 that Hypericum perforatum-derived ingredients are safe for cosmetic use within a concentration range of 0.00002% to 0.07%. However, a significant concern is its photosensitizing potential due to hypericin, which can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight upon topical application. The FDA has approved Hypericum perforatum solely as a natural flavoring substance in alcoholic beverages, and only in a hypericin-free alcohol distillate form.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While offering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing benefits across all skin types, the significant photosensitization risk posed by hypericin mandates extremely careful formulation and strict user precautions, making its inclusion in daily precision skincare products challenging.

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