Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions through active constituents like hyperforin and hypericin. Hyperforin stimulates keratinocyte growth and differentiation, while hypericin, along with other components, provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and inhibits protein alteration. Its anti-inflammatory action soothes erythema, while antimicrobial properties benefit acne-prone skin and manage body odor. Furthermore, it aids in moisturizing dry skin, reducing flaking, and supporting gentle exfoliation for brighter skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.07%
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated this ingredient for safety across a broad concentration range (0.00002% to 0.07%). The primary formulation consideration revolves around managing its photosensitizing potential rather than concerns about sub-effective concentrations for marketing purposes.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The stability of hypericin, a photosensitizing compound, is a critical factor. Extracts prepared with propylene glycol or glycerol-water solvents generally exhibit enhanced water solubility and stability. The specific properties and composition of the extract are highly dependent on the choice of extraction solvent, such as water, glycols, ethanol, or various oils.
Conflicts
- Direct sunlight exposure due to photosensitivity induced by hypericin.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded in 2014 that Hypericum perforatum-derived ingredients are safe for cosmetic use within a concentration range of 0.00002% to 0.07%. However, a significant concern is its photosensitizing potential due to hypericin, which can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight upon topical application. The FDA has approved Hypericum perforatum solely as a natural flavoring substance in alcoholic beverages, and only in a hypericin-free alcohol distillate form.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While offering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing benefits across all skin types, the significant photosensitization risk posed by hypericin mandates extremely careful formulation and strict user precautions, making its inclusion in daily precision skincare products challenging.
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References
Sources
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