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HYDROXYPROPYL CYCLODEXTRIN.

Valuable CAS 128446-33-3 / 128446-35-5 / FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a highly versatile functional ingredient utilized to enhance the stability and solubility of active compounds. It facilitates deeper penetration into the skin and provides a controlled release mechanism, while also effectively reducing irritation potential and masking undesirable odors in formulations.

Summary

Solubilizer Stabilizer Delivery Enhancer Irritation Reducer Masking Skin conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates by forming inclusion complexes, where its hydrophobic cavity encapsulates active molecules. This action significantly improves the stability of sensitive compounds like vitamins and fragrances, boosts the solubility of poorly soluble actives, and enhances their permeation through the skin barrier, ensuring a prolonged and controlled release. Beyond encapsulation, it can temporarily modify stratum corneum lipid structures, creating microchannels, and chemically alter distribution coefficients. Furthermore, it effectively reduces the irritation associated with other organic molecules and neutralizes unpleasant scents.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a substantial increase in azelaic acid's apparent solubility, raising it from 0.24g/100mL to 5.8g/100mL. Concurrently, it boosted the cumulative skin permeation of azelaic acid by 3.2 times over a 24-hour period.
  2. 02 Reduced stinging sensations from 35% to 12% in formulas containing 20% azelaic acid. It also significantly decreased erythema rates from 18% to 6% in formulations with 5% niacinamide, indicating a strong irritation-reducing effect.
  3. 03 General cyclodextrins are considered safe and non-irritating within this concentration range, with mild irritation or dryness noted only rarely at significantly higher concentrations.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in solution across a broad pH range (3, 5, 7, and 9) under stressed conditions (40°C, 700 kPa O2 pressure, 150 mM ionic strength), and also stable under normal storage conditions.

Conflicts

  • Competitive complexation can occur with other common pharmaceutical excipients, including water-soluble polymers, preservatives, and surfactants, which may influence its solubilizing capabilities and requires careful formulation consideration.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) as a safe cosmetic ingredient. In the European Union, the European Medicines Agency (EMA) approves cyclodextrins as excipients and deems HP-β-CD safe at relatively high non-topical doses up to 250 mg/kg/day for individuals over two years old. The FDA has also approved HPBCD-enabled formulations for pharmaceutical use, and it is present in numerous FDA-approved cosmeceuticals. While a general topical concentration recommendation for cyclodextrins is 0.1%-5%, efficacy studies have shown benefits at concentrations up to 10%.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a highly valuable excipient that significantly enhances the stability, solubility, and targeted delivery of active ingredients, while simultaneously improving formulation tolerability and masking undesirable sensory attributes, making it versatile across numerous product categories.

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