Science
Mechanism of Action
HEPES acts as a gentle exfoliating agent by disrupting the bonds between keratinocytes, leading to the softening of keratin and the efficient removal of old, dull surface cells. This process stimulates cell metabolism and renewal. Additionally, it serves as a robust organic buffering agent, maintaining the pH of cosmetic formulations within a stable range, particularly around physiological pH. This compound also enhances the adsorption and absorption of other active ingredients. Furthermore, HEPES offers a degree of protection against UV and visible light by adsorbing and partially reflecting these harmful radiations, without penetrating deeply through the epidermis due to its membrane impermeability.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 When incorporated into formulations alongside Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Glycolic and Citric acids), HEPES demonstrated promising results in the management of acne, reducing post-inflammatory hyperchromia, and controlling sebum, leading to a notable decrease in skin oiliness and hyperchromic lesions.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
HEPES functions as an excellent buffering agent, effectively maintaining a constant pH range over extended periods, particularly around its physiological pKa of 7.55 at 20°C. It exhibits heat resistance and enhanced stability against both oxidation-reduction reactions and UV exposure.
Synergies
- Enhances the adsorption and absorption of other active ingredients.
- Shows promising results when combined with AHAs (Glycolic, Citric acids) and BHA (Salicylic acid) for addressing acne, hyperchromia, and sebum control.
Conflicts
- Oxidizing agents.
- A cautionary note from one source indicates a potential to generate free radical damage in the presence of oxygen, despite other research suggesting stability against oxidation.
Safety
Safety Profile
HEPES is generally considered safe for cosmetic use, with Safety Data Sheets indicating it is not classified as a hazardous substance. EWG Skin Deep assigns a 'LOW' concern rating (Level 1 green certification), citing limited evidence of skin or eye irritation. SkinSAFE further classifies it as 'Teen SAFE', 'Lip SAFE', 'Baby SAFE', 'Eyelid SAFE', and 'Irritant Free'. However, some research suggests a potential for free radical generation in the presence of oxygen, advising caution, which contrasts with other findings highlighting its stability against oxidation-reduction reactions and UV exposure.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
HEPES is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, offering gentle exfoliation, crucial formulation pH stability, enhanced active ingredient delivery, and some protective benefits against light, with a generally low risk profile for all skin types.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…