Science
Mechanism of Action
This copolymer acts by depositing hydrolyzed wheat proteins onto the skin's surface and into deeper layers. These proteins function as humectants, attracting and locking in moisture for enhanced hydration. Additionally, it forms a fine, protective film on the skin, which helps to condition the skin and minimize moisture loss.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives are generally well-tolerated by the skin and are not inherently prone to microbiological degradation, often negating the need for extra preservatives for the PEG component. The water solubility and hygroscopicity of polyethylene glycols are observed to diminish with an increase in their molar mass.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that hydrolyzed wheat protein is safe for cosmetic use when precisely formulated to minimize peptide lengths exceeding 30 amino acids (approximately 3.3 kDa). It should not be applied to compromised skin, products that may contact mucous membranes, or those with incidental inhalation risk. While EWG rates this copolymer as low for cancer, allergies, and developmental toxicity, it notes that the score can increase if there is potential contamination from impurities like ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Hydrolyzed wheat protein is not restricted for use in the European Union. The FDA has categorized peptones, which include hydrolyzed wheat protein, as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for direct food use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN/PEG-20 ACETATE COPOLYMER is a valuable ingredient for enhancing skin hydration and texture through its conditioning, humectant, and film-forming properties, provided it is formulated adhering to specific safety guidelines regarding peptide length.
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References
Sources