Science
Mechanism of Action
Hydrolyzed Saccharomyces Extract Octenylsuccinate functions through a multi-faceted approach. The hydrolyzed yeast component, rich in complex sugars (oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, beta-glucans) and skin-friendly lipids, supports the skin's natural barrier and provides soothing hydration. It can stimulate the skin's intrinsic hyaluronic acid synthesis via Glycokines, resulting in smoother, more supple skin. Peptides derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae contribute potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-collagenase effects. The octenylsuccinate modification primarily influences the ingredient's physical properties within a formulation, potentially enhancing solubility, stability, or acting as a film former to optimize delivery and sensory experience.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1-3%
Key findings
- 01 Usage levels between 1-3% of hydrolyzed yeast extract blends have been shown to significantly support the skin's barrier function, enhance resilience, improve hydration, and reduce sensations of itchiness, while also contributing to overall skin brightness.
- 02 Cosmetic formulations featuring Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract demonstrated long-term improvements in skin microrelief (texture and surface irregularities) and enhanced skin moisture content.
- 03 Peptides isolated from Saccharomyces cerevisiae exhibited antimicrobial activity against dermal pathogens. These peptides also demonstrated dose-dependent collagenase inhibition (41.8% at 250 µg/mL and 94.5% at 1000 µg/mL), significant antioxidant capacity, and anti-inflammatory effects by decreasing TNF-α expression in fibroblasts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is utilized for its functional benefits at clinically relevant percentages (1-3%), suggesting it is not commonly 'dusted' in formulations merely for marketing claims.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability and activity are observed within a pH range of 3.5 to 6.0, aligning with the optimal growth conditions for Saccharomyces cerevisiae (pH 4.0–6.0). Yeast proteins from this species can improve emulsion stability when precipitated at pH 3.5-4.0. The octenylsuccinate modification is designed to influence solubility and stability, often by imparting amphiphilic or film-forming characteristics.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel issued a second Insufficient Data Announcement (IDA) in June 2023 for 'Hydrolyzed Saccharomyces Extract' and related yeast-derived ingredients, requesting confirmatory dermal sensitization and toxicity data. While Saccharomyces cerevisiae is affirmed GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) by the FDA for oral ingestion at ≤5%, this status is not directly applicable to topical cosmetic use of this specific modified extract. A cosmetic formulation containing 1% Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract showed no significant irritation in a human irritation assay. However, some Local Lymph Node Assays (LLNAs) in mice indicated a sensitizing potential for Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract at concentrations exceeding 10%.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While clinical data strongly supports its benefits for barrier support, hydration, and anti-aging at 1-3% concentrations, the current 'insufficient data' status from the CIR for safety necessitates further comprehensive dermatological assessment before full endorsement.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…