Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a robust antioxidant by actively scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) and elevating the expression of endogenous antioxidant proteins such as Nrf2, HO-1, SOD, and CAT. It concurrently exerts anti-inflammatory effects. Significantly, it protects skin cells from damage induced by urban particulate matter, achieved through the inhibition of AhR-induced ROS production and a reduction in TRPV1 activation, which collectively promotes keratinocyte proliferation. Furthermore, Hydrolyzed Porphyra Yezoensis has shown capabilities in inhibiting melanogenesis for skin brightening, stimulating collagen synthesis, and acting as a humectant to enhance skin conditioning and hydration. Low-molecular-weight polysaccharides within Porphyra yezoensis also impart crucial photoaging protection.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 An active compound from Porphyra yezoensis (Porphyra 334) at 50 µg/mL attenuated urban particulate matter-induced keratinocyte cell damage. This occurred by inhibiting AhR-induced ROS production and reducing TRPV1 activation, leading to cell proliferation and suggesting protection against pollutants.
- 02 A pepsin hydrolysate of Porphyra yezoensis proteins at 0.8 mg/mL demonstrated significant antioxidant activity, exhibiting 82.6% DPPH activity, 77.5% ABTS activity, and 88.4% ferrous ion chelation activity.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Porphyran, a major polysaccharide component of Porphyra yezoensis, demonstrates high emulsion stability across a broad range of pH and temperatures, even in the presence of sodium chloride.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel found insufficient data for Hydrolyzed Porphyra Yezoensis, specifically lacking systemic toxicity data (via food use, GRAS status, or oral toxicity) and/or sensitization data, which prevented a conclusion of safety. While the U.S. FDA has granted GRAS status to Porphyra tenera and Rhodymenia palmata (different species) for food use as flavor enhancers, this status does not apply to the cosmetic use of Hydrolyzed Porphyra Yezoensis.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While demonstrating promising multifaceted benefits including antioxidant, anti-pollution, and hydration, the current lack of comprehensive safety data from the CIR Panel necessitates caution and further research for widespread cosmetic use.
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