Science
Mechanism of Action
Upon hydrolysis, it releases salicylic acid derivatives that facilitate gentle exfoliation and promote skin cell renewal. It also exhibits anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting pro-inflammatory enzymes like hyaluronidase, lipoxygenase, and COX-2, alongside astringent and antibacterial properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 An ex-vivo study demonstrated a dose-dependent antioxidant effect, reducing Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) release by 94% at 150 µg/mL in fMLP-stimulated human neutrophils.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Esters within Gaultheria extracts may hydrolyze over time, forming their corresponding acids. While a pH of 8 has been noted for enzyme inactivation, specific optimal pH for the stability of the hydrolyzed extract in formulations is not clearly defined.
Conflicts
- Avoid undiluted application due to potential for severe skin irritation or chemical burns.
- Do not use on broken or inflamed skin.
- Avoid tightly bandaging or applying external heat to areas where products containing this ingredient have been applied.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR has designated this specific hydrolyzed extract as having 'insufficient data' for safety review. While Gaultheria procumbens leaf extract is generally considered low risk, methyl salicylate (a major component of Wintergreen oil) requires careful formulation, with warnings against undiluted use and recommendations for patch testing for sensitive individuals. Cumulative exposure to salicylates should be considered.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient offers promising exfoliating, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory benefits, but its specific hydrolyzed form currently has 'insufficient data' from CIR for comprehensive safety assessment, necessitating careful formulation and consideration of its methyl salicylate content.
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References
Sources
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