Science
Mechanism of Action
HYDROLYZED ASPERGILLUS/SACCHAROMYCES/RICE FERMENT LEES EXTRACT operates on multiple dermal levels. It significantly boosts skin hydration by increasing the expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), and Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) mRNA, leading to elevated moisture levels within the epidermis. It fortifies the skin barrier through enhanced mRNA expression of tight junction proteins like Claudin 1 (CLDN1), Involucrin (IVL), and Zonula Occludens-1 (ZO-1) in keratinocytes. Beyond barrier function, this extract actively promotes fibroblast proliferation (by over 112%), stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity. Its antioxidant properties reduce reactive oxygen species, protecting against environmental damage from pollution and sun exposure. The ingredient also contributes to a more even skin tone by inhibiting melanin synthesis and possesses anti-inflammatory benefits through the suppression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, while harmonizing the skin's microflora. The fermentation process itself aids in breaking down potential irritants, enhancing skin tolerance.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.25%
Key findings
- 01 An extract of Red Rice Fermented by Aspergillus oryzae (RRFA) significantly boosted skin water content, increased Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) protein by 28%, elevated Filaggrin (FLG) protein by 26%, and enhanced fibroblast proliferation by 116.63% in in vitro studies.
- 02 At a 3% concentration, the RRFA extract demonstrated higher increases in key proteins: Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) by 71% and Filaggrin (FLG) by 51%, with fibroblast proliferation maintained at 112.64%. However, water content improvement at this concentration was not substantially greater than observed at 1.25%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Data is currently unavailable to determine if this specific ingredient is commonly subject to cosmetic dusting practices or to establish relevant thresholds.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
An aqueous extract from rice fermented with Aspergillus oryzae and Saccharomyces cerevisiae was observed to have a pH of 6.50, indicating a potentially suitable pH for formulated products. However, it is noted that hydrolysis of rice lees under low pH and high-temperature conditions during processing could lead to the production of chloropropanol from fats, suggesting careful pH management during manufacturing is important for safety and stability.
Safety
Safety Profile
While this specific ingredient has not been explicitly reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), related 'Yeast-Derived Ingredients' have been deemed safe in current cosmetic uses. Aspergillus oryzae is recognized for not secreting carcinogenic aflatoxins. Generally, fermented rice ingredients are considered biocompatible and non-irritating, with the fermentation process itself often breaking down potential allergens and irritants, contributing to improved skin tolerance.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This multifaceted fermented rice extract offers significant benefits across hydration, barrier repair, anti-aging, and brightening, making it a valuable addition for comprehensive skin health and resilience.
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References
Sources